MARINE INGREDIENTS


How kelp is redefining eco-friendly skin care


Simon Pitman – Macro Oceans


Kelp, long revered for its nutrient-rich properties, is experiencing a renaissance in the beauty industry. As scientific evidence mounts supporting its hydrating, protective, and regenerative qualities, kelp extracts are emerging as a solution to the industry‘s dual challenge: developing products with proven efficacy and minimal environmental impact. The low carbon footprint of kelp cultivation,


combined with its high nutrient density, makes it an increasingly attractive ingredient for formulators seeking sustainable yet potent solutions. Market intelligence provider Mordor Intelligence forecasts the global market for seaweed extracts in cosmetic products to reach $4.2 billion by 2025, growing at a CAGR of 8.5%.1 This surge in demand is driving innovation,


with companies like California-based Macro Oceans introducing specialised kelp-derived bioactives that promise both eco-friendliness and high efficacy for a wide range of beauty and personal care applications.


How kelp extracts help the skin Kelp is another name for brown seaweeds, or macro algae, that grow in cold waters. Some common species of kelp include: Macrocystis pyrifera (Giant kelp), Laminaria japonica (Kombu), Undaria pinnatifida (Wakame), and Saccharina latissima (Sugar kelp). Kelp extracts are known to have particularly


high, regenerative, protective and skin hydration properties, with substantive scientific evidence to underscore this. Macro Oceans has been building on its own body of scientific evidence to underline this, with a third-party clinical trial conducted this summer on Big Kelp Hydration demonstrating top-rated absorption and retention for skin moisturisation, as well as UV protection. The results also show skin regenerative properties, thanks to the stimulating impact on collagen and elastin.


Environmental benefits of farmed seaweed Unlike traditional monoculture agriculture, which often deplete resources, seaweed cultivation actively enhances marine ecosystems while providing valuable biomass. Seaweed farms create complex three- dimensional structures, serving as habitats for various marine species. This kelp forest supports biodiversity by


providing shelter, breeding grounds, and feeding areas for fish, invertebrates, and


www.personalcaremagazine.com other marine life.2 In contrast to terrestrial


monocultures that often reduce biodiversity, seaweed farms can increase local species richness and abundance.


How farmed seaweed benefits the ocean One of the most significant benefits of seaweed farming is its potential to combat ocean acidification. As seaweed grows, it absorbs dissolved carbon dioxide from the surrounding water, effectively acting as a carbon sink. This process locally increases pH levels, creating a refugia of less acidic water that can benefit calcifying organisms like shellfish and corals.3 Research has shown that seaweed farms can


reduce acidification in their immediate vicinity, potentially offering a scalable solution to this global problem. Seaweed acts as a natural biofilter, absorbing excess nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus from the water. By removing these nutrients, seaweed farms help maintain water quality and ecosystem balance.4


This


cleaning effect can be particularly beneficial in coastal areas affected by nutrient pollution.


Sustainable cultivation practices Unlike terrestrial crops, seaweed requires no fertilizers, pesticides, or freshwater inputs. It grows using naturally available nutrients and sunlight, making it an incredibly sustainable crop. Sugar kelp has yields similar to grain products — without requiring any fertilizers, fresh water,


or carbon. This characteristic not only reduces the environmental impact of cultivation but also eliminates the risk of chemical runoff associated with conventional agriculture. In Alaska, where Macro Oceans sources


the seaweed for its cosmetic ingredients, the state has implemented rigorous management practices to prevent the introduction of invasive species. The Alaska Department of Fish and Game only permits the cultivation of native seaweed species within a 50km radius of their natural occurrence.5 This policy ensures that seaweed farming


remains ecologically compatible with local ecosystems, preserving native biodiversity. While not a permanent carbon storage solution, seaweed farming shows promise in carbon sequestration. Rapidly growing species like kelp can absorb substantial amounts of carbon dioxide during their growth cycle. Although much of this carbon is released


back into the environment when the seaweed decomposes or is consumed, ongoing research explores methods to maximize long-term carbon storage through seaweed cultivation.


How does kelp work? Kelp has been used to soothe, hydrate and protect skin for thousands of years; Estée Lauder’s eponymous La Mer skin care cream has long been lauded for its kelp extract formulation, while brands like Tatcha and Repêchage have also added to the mix with


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