86 MARINE INGREDIENTS
possibilities for synergistic formulations that can offer comprehensive skin benefits. For cosmetic chemists, laminarin provides a versatile and effective ingredient that aligns with the growing consumer demand for natural and scientifically backed skin care solutions.
Building on academic research with clinical trials Academic research is interesting, but beauty brands and consumers want clinical data on the actual ingredients they’re purchasing. Market intelligence companies providing analysis of the beauty space have been tracking science- backed beauty claims for a number of years – noting how popular such claims have become. A recent article in The Guardian outlines this phenomenon, drawing on research from Kantar that points to greater consumer awareness of ingredient functionality.13 In response to this, Macro Oceans
commissioned its own clinical trials to add to the existing academic research. It started with a small-scale trial in 2023, followed by a larger-scale trial in Summer 2024 that showed statistically significant improvements in hydration, moisturisation, and skin luminosity (Figures 2, 3 and 4). Carried out on 33 individuals aged between
18 and 45 with moderate to olive complexions, the study was a controlled, double-blinded experiment using a 3% dose of Big Kelp Hydration. It compared the results to the placebo to determine the impact on the skin’s hydration, barrier function and brightness. The preliminary results were assessed over a
24-hour period, revealing an 80% improvement in skin hydration, a 26% improvement in skin barrier function and a 1% increase in skin luminosity, in comparison to the blank serum. Overall, the ingredient demonstrated statistically significant hydration, skin barrier and luminosity effects at each measurement during the 24-hour period, compared to the placebo.
Conclusion Kelp extracts are emerging as a powerful force in the cosmetics industry, offering a unique combination of efficacy, sustainability, and scientific backing. As research continues to unveil the multi-faceted benefits of fucoidan and laminarin, these marine-derived ingredients are likely to become increasingly prevalent in innovative skin care formulations. With growing consumer demand for eco-
friendly products, kelp-based ingredients like Big Kelp Hydration by Macro Oceans are poised to play a significant role in shaping the future of beauty.
References 1. Mordor Intelligence. Commercial Seaweed Market Size. 2024. https://www.
mordorintelligence.com/industry-reports/ commercial-seaweed-market/market-size
2. Office of Communications. Seaweed Aquaculture. NOAA Fisheries. 28 February 2024.
https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/ national/aquaculture/seaweed-aquaculture
3. Xiao X, Agustí S, Yu Y, Huang Y. Seaweed farms provide refugia from ocean acidification. The
PERSONAL CARE October 2024 PC Blank sample ■ 3% BKH ■ Untreated ■ Tewameter (mean values) 15 10
5
0 Baseline Immediate 4 hours Time Point Figure 4: Chart depicting the improvement in skin barrier for a 3% dose of Big Kelp Hydration 8 hours 24 hours
Science of The Total Environment. 2021 Feb; 776:145192
4. Khan N, Sudhakar K, Mamat R. Macroalgae farming for a sustainable future: Navigating opportunities and driving innovation. Heliyon. 2024; Apr 15; 10(7):e28208
5. Bishop A, Wilson H, Morris M, Pryor G, Budnik R, Brady C, Miller A, Smith B. Alaska Aquaculture Permitting Guide. U.S. Department of Commerce, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, National Marine Fisheries Service. 2021
6. Moon HJ, Lee SR, Shim SN, Jeong SH, Stonik VA, Rasskazov VA, Zvyagintseva T, Lee YH. Fucoidan Inhibits UVB-Induced MMP-1 Expression in Human Skin Fibroblasts. Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin. 2008; 31(2), 284-289
7. Thomas NV, Kim S-K. Beneficial Effects of Marine Algal Compounds in Cosmeceuticals. Mar. Drugs. 2013; 11, 146-164. https://macro-
oceans.com/kim-2013
8. Fitton JH, Dell‘Acqua G, Gardiner V-A, Karpiniec SS, Stringer DN, Davis E. Topical Benefits of Two Fucoidan-Rich Extracts from Marine Macroalgae. Cosmetics. 2015; 2, 66-81
9. Wang J, Jin W, Hou Y, Niu X, Zhang H, Zhang Q. Chemical Composition and Moisture-Absorption/Retention Ability of Polysaccharides Extracted from Five
Algae. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules. 2013, 57, 26–29. https://
macro-oceans.com/wang-2013
10. Ozanne H, Toumi H, Roubinet B, Landemarre L, Lespessailles E, Daniellou R, Cesaro, A. Laminarin Effects, a β-(1,3)-Glucan, on Skin Cell Inflammation and Oxidation. Cosmetics. 2020; 7, 66.
https://macro-oceans.com/ ozanne-2020
11. Ahn JH, Kim DW, Park CW, Lee T-K, Kim HS, Lee J-C, Go EY, Her Y, Park JH, Sim TH, Lee HS, Won M-H. Laminarin Attenuates Ultraviolet-Induced Skin Damage by Reducing Superoxide Anion Levels and Increasing Endogenous Antioxidants in the Dorsal Skin of
Mice.Mar. Drugs. 2020; 18(7), 345. https://
macro-oceans.com/ahn-2020
12. Lee T-K, Kim DW, Ahn JH, Lee C-H, Hong SY, Lim IJ, Kang S, Choi M-H, Won S-H, Park J.H. Protective Effects of Topical Administration of Laminarin in Oxazolone-Induced Atopic Dermatitis-like Skin Lesions. Mar. Drugs, 2022; 20(11), 669.
https://macro-oceans.com/lee- 2022
13. The Guardian. Credible science or false claims? Calls for more regulation of beauty products. 4 March 2024. https://www.
theguardian.com/fashion/2024/mar/04/ credible-science-or-false-claims-calls-for- more-regulation-of-beauty-products
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Improvement in skin barrier (lower is better)
13.23 13.15
13.95 10.3
14.45 11.21
14.48 12.07
13.73 12.66
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