80 GLOBAL REGULATIONS


the most current regulations into account for every material sourced. The same systems can pre-authorize


suppliers based on templated questionnaires that cover global regulations and compare fields for these against competing suppliers during requests for X (RFX).


Myth 4: ‘If I know what the EU requires, I am probably covered for the rest of the world’ The EU often sets new precedents in the global regulatory landscape. Since the EU’s guidance for chemical and cosmetics manufacturers has been clear for a few years now, and many markets have followed suit, manufacturers and suppliers may assume they’ve got it covered. However, PLMs without transparency for


global markets may be at risk. Moreover, even though Asia-Pacific and Chinese markets release regulatory updates a few months or years after the EU or the FDA, these markets are expected to continue to grow exponentially in the years to come. Analysis from Data Bridge Market Research


shows that the Asia-Pacific market alone is growing with a CAGR of 6.5% in the forecast period of 2022 to 2029 and is expected to reach $167.7 billion by 2029.2 It is certainly complicated to track these


markets’ regulatory changes. However, PLM developer teams with dedicated, language- specific resources have a clear advantage. The Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC) and the Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics (STSC) need to be reflected in automated workflows across PLM processes. Both the source and the compliance


calculations in these jurisdictions must be up to date. Look for embedded technology teams that can contact the authorities for clarification as they update platforms. Chemical and cosmetic manufacturers access the correct library data because these PLM technology teams have


PERSONAL CARE October 2024


done the footwork. True experts lend market expertise in managing the ever-changing Chinese regulatory landscape.


Myth 5: ‘New regulations for allergen-labeling for ‘parfum’ will remain an EU issue’ The EU released new requirements for listing fragrance ingredients which cause allergies instead of simply printing ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’ on the label.3


This will be difficult for many


cosmetics companies to manage. If the known composition of parfum isn’t


100% clear, companies will have to do a lot of digging to surface missing ingredients and list them when required. Future labeling regulations must be supported by a robust PLM to support real-time libraries, accurate reporting, instant updates, and supplier management.


Myth 6: ‘Consumers are not very educated about what is in their cosmetics’ The explosion of clean, organic, vegan and other natural beauty cosmetics brands arose to meet consumer demand. More and more, shoppers have been searching online by ingredient, and they are not only seeking allergen-free products. They now look at labels for ecologically sound and socially sustainable practices, as well. Ensuring product labeling and online ingredients satisfy this trend may ensure viability in the cosmetics marketplace now and in the future. PLMs need to automate labeling to include


these new consumer preferences as well as regulatory needs. Consumers are much savvier about gluten and other sensitivities, too. Even if they are not technically allergic, they


still expect to be able to check the label of personal care items for these ingredients. The EU’s recent new rules require companies to submit ‘green claims’ for approval before using them on packaging. These and other packaging regulations need to be part of your digital thread of


product lifecycle management, ensuring each formulation exists digitally with all of its attributes, from idea to label and launch.


Myth 7: ‘I do not need to worry about microplastics yet. I am not commercialized in the EU, nor do I serve its cosmetics customers’ Microplastics, or synthetic polymer microparticles, will continue to be highly regulated or even banned, worldwide. It seems certain that everyone will be subject to some form of microplastics regulation by 2050, when some experts say there will be more plastics than fish in the ocean.4 The European Regulation for the


Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) published new measures to reduce microplastics pollution in October. Microplastics are banned on their own or in mixtures if intentionally added in concentrations greater than or equal to 0.01%. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA)


has been working on guidance for exfoliating microbeads in facial or body scrubs and toothpastes for years. Products like these, including glitter in many cosmetics, will be banned, while others will require more detailed safety data sheets (SDS) and/or additional labeling compliance. On 1 February, Environmental Science &


Technology published a paper calling for an international ban on the sale of products with intentionally added microplastics and products that release microplastics over time.5


PLM


managers and cosmetics leadership should be prepared with PLM processes and technologies that support this growing area of concern. At minimum, each product in your


pipeline and portfolio should be managed for microplastics to: ■ Track the percentage of microplastics present in the ingredients ■ Calculate the total amount of microplastics in the product


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