SUSTAINABILITY
Development prospects of vegan collagen
Miya Yang - Jinbo Bio-Pharma
In the global skin care and oral beauty market, ever more plant and animal collagen are used. Strictly speaking, plant collagen is not a real collagen, because it is merely a glycoprotein or a polysaccharide. Meanwhile, animal collagen has many
problems, such as its limited source, complex composition, difficult-to-isolate target protein, uneven batches of raw materials, the fact they contain certain immunogenic components and carry viruses such as mad cow disease, water soluble difficulty, and religious issues. Therefore, it can be said that it is necessary to develop a third generation of collagen: bio-fermented vegan collagen. In the beauty industry, biotechnology raw
materials are loved by consumers, and the product we talk about here, i.e. vegan collagen, also comes from biological fermentation technology. Different from the previous plant collagen and animal collagen, vegan collagen derived from biotechnology has huge application advantages and broad development prospects that are explained below.
Various fermentation systems At present, the industrialization of vegan collagen fermentation systems include plant cells and microbial cell systems, of which the expression systems of microorganisms such as Pichia pastoris and Escherichia coli have the advantages of low cost, fast speed, easy culture, clear genetic background, strong operability, high density fermentation and easy commercial production, and so on. For these reasons, they are the first choice for industrial production. As it widely known, the common structural
feature of collagen is the presence of a triple helix that can range from most of their structure (96% for collagen I) to less than 10% (collagen XII).
To ensure the triple helix structure of
collagen for the better effect through different fermentation systems is also a future research direction. For example, select the appropriate sequence, such as containing arginine triangle structure that can better form and stabilize the triple helix, and then express it with a suitable fermentation system.
Types of collagen A total of 28 types of collagen are found in the human body now, such as collagen I, collagen III, collagen IV, collagen V, collagen VII, collagen
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Figure 1: Arginine triangle in the triple helix structure of collagen III
XVII in the skin, collagen II in cartilage, and XXI collagen in the eyes and so on. All of the above collagens and their
associated amino acid sequences can be produced by fermentation technology theoretically, including the rare collagen. However, the collagen extracted from animals is mostly type I collagen. In addition, more importantly, in the study of each type of collagen, it will be found that each single chain has different functional regions.
With the help of artificial intelligence (AI) to find the core functional regions and even find regions with stronger activity than full-length collagen is a future technical point.
Molecular weight design and innovation of dosage form As is widely known, the molecular weight of collagen in the human body is very large, about hundreds of thousands. If we want to supplement collagen for the skin, the design of different molecular weights of collagen is very critical, and thousands to tens of thousands of molecular weights are currently used in the field of personal care. However, if the molecular weight is too small
to form a triple helix, it can only be called a polypeptide component. In addition, different encapsulation
technologies, such as liposome technology and supramolecular technology, can be used to improve the stability, transdermal absorption and slow release of collagen. These techniques have been used in many active substances, but they are currently used less in vegan collagen.
Aim of 100% homology with human collagen sequence At present, animal collagen such as pig collagen and fish collagen in use have about 90%
October 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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