84 MARINE INGREDIENTS
highly successful kelp-based skin care products. These high-profile brands have served to
make kelp-based skin care products amongst the most coveted in the world, simply because consumers get the results they want. That efficacy is a result of kelp’s intensive bioactivity, derived from the complex sugars, referred to as polysaccharides. In response to the harsh ocean environment
kelp develops high levels of polysaccharides that help protect it from dehydration. These compounds provide regenerative properties to repair the plant when it is damaged by the elements, as well as providing UVB protection from the sun. The polysaccharides consist of fucoidan and laminarin, the bioactive compounds that give the extract its efficacy. There is also substantial scientific evidence to support the efficacy of these polysaccharides, and it is something the company is continuing to build on with an ongoing clinical trial programme. The company’s clinical trials have resulted in
a growing body of research that demonstrates top-rated absorption and retention for skin moisturisation, as well as UV protection. The results also show skin regenerative properties, thanks to the stimulating impact on collagen and elastin.
Fucoidan shows photoageing, hydration and regenerative properties A key aspect of fucoidan‘s potential in skin care is its ability to modulate the expression of specific enzymes involved in skin ageing. As highlighted in a 2013 review by Thomas and Kim, fucoidan, a sulfated polysaccharide found in brown algae, has gained attention for its potential cosmeceutical applications.6 Specifically, research conducted by Moon
et al. in 2008 demonstrated that fucoidan can inhibit the UV-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in human skin fibroblasts. MMP-1 is known to degrade collagen, a crucial protein that maintains the skin‘s structural integrity. The study showed that fucoidan inhibits
UVB-induced MMP-1 expression at both the protein and mRNA levels in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, the researchers found that fucoidan‘s inhibitory effect on MMP-1 expression was primarily through the inhibition of the extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) pathway.
These findings suggest that fucoidan may
help prevent UVB-induced collagen degradation, potentially contributing to the prevention of skin photoageing. The authors conclude that fucoidan could be viewed as a potential therapeutic agent for preventing and treating skin photoageing.7
This study, along with others
reviewed by Thomas and Kim, underscores the growing interest in marine-derived compounds for cosmeceutical applications. Moreover, fucoidan‘s ability to upregulate
SIRT1, a longevity-associated protein, further contributes to its anti-ageing properties. SIRT1 plays a critical role in cellular repair mechanisms and has been shown to protect against oxidative stress, a major factor in skin ageing.
PERSONAL CARE October 2024
Figure 1: Kelp requires no inputs for its cultivation, which means no pesticides. Credit: Alaska Open Farms
The increased expression of SIRT1 by fucoidan, as noted in Fitton et al.‘s 2015 study, highlights its potential to enhance skin resilience and promote regeneration at the cellular level.8 In addition to its anti-ageing effects, fucoidan
also excels in improving skin hydration. A comparative study by Wang et al. (2013) revealed that low molecular weight polysaccharides extracted from brown seaweed, including fucoidan, demonstrated superior moisture absorption and retention rates compared to hyaluronic acid, a gold-standard ingredient in skin care for moisture retention .9 This is particularly significant as hyaluronic
acid has long been favoured for its ability to retain moisture. Fucoidan‘s enhanced performance can be attributed to its sulfated polysaccharide structure, which allows for stronger interactions with water molecules, thereby improving moisture retention in the skin. Beyond hydration and anti-ageing, fucoidan
also plays a critical role in skin repair and regeneration. The bioactive properties of fucoidan from Undaria pinnatifida have been shown to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, key components of the extracellular matrix that support skin structure.8 This stimulation not only helps in
maintaining skin firmness but also accelerates the healing process of damaged skin, making fucoidan an ideal ingredient for products aimed at skin regeneration and repair. The research on fucoidan demonstrates its
multifaceted potential in skin care applications. Its ability to inhibit UV-induced MMP-1 expression suggests a role in preventing photoageing, while its upregulation of SIRT1 indicates anti-ageing properties at the cellular level. Fucoidan‘s superior moisture retention capabilities, compared even to hyaluronic acid, highlight its effectiveness in skin hydration. Furthermore, its capacity to stimulate
collagen and elastin production contributes to skin firmness and accelerated healing. These
diverse properties position fucoidan as a promising ingredient in cosmeceuticals, offering benefits in photoageing prevention, hydration, and skin regeneration. As research continues, fucoidan‘s role in skin care formulations may expand, potentially revolutionising approaches to skin health and anti-ageing treatments.
Laminarin showed to reduce UV damage and inflammation Laminarin, a β-(1,3)-glucan derived from brown seaweed, has demonstrated potential as an active ingredient in skin care formulations, particularly for its antioxidant and anti- inflammatory properties. In a 2020 study by Ozanne et al., laminarin showed promising effects on human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes. The study found that at low concentrations (1-10 µg/mL), laminarin significantly reduced intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels, demonstrating its antioxidant capabilities. Additionally, at 10 µg/mL, laminarin
decreased the secretion of the pro- inflammatory cytokine IL-6 under inflammatory conditions, suggesting potential anti- inflammatory effects. These findings indicate laminarin‘s potential to protect against oxidative stress and modulate inflammatory responses in skin cells and as a protective agent against environmental stressors.10 In addition to its anti-inflammatory effects, laminarin exhibits potent antioxidant properties that are crucial for combating oxidative stress, a key contributor to skin ageing and damage. Ahn et al. (2020) investigated the effects of laminarin on UVB-induced skin damage, revealing that topical application of laminarin significantly reduced oxidative stress markers. The study highlighted that laminarin treatment
led to a marked decrease in superoxide anion levels and a corresponding increase in the activity of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, including superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione
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