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Volume 25 Issue 9 WWW.PERSONALCAREMAGAZINE.COM


CONTENTS


3


@personalcaremag Follow us at


REGULARS 5 6 9


Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Ashland News


103 Formulations


Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers


FEATURES


17 Interview: The future of beauty Chicago-based Perry Romanowski is chair of


education at the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) and president of US consultancy Element 44. Ahead of the 34th IFSCC Congress in Iguazú Falls, Brazil, Romanowski talks about the future of beauty


21 in-cosmetics Asia 2024 preview Taking place on 5-7 November at the Bangkok


International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC) in Thailand, in-cosmetics Asia 2024 will revolve around four key themes - science, innovation, trends, and community. This in-depth preview details all the major visitors attractions and new product releases on show by selected exhibitors


31 Vegan kefir: a daily companion for


skin care CLR presents the findings of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies into a vegan fermented skin care active ingredient designed to help skin maintain its oxidative balance and enhance its self-defence mechanisms


37 Reef-safe sunscreen: a formulator’s


perspective Indian consultants Bregma Science examines the impact of sunscreen ingredients on coral reefs and the concept of ‘reef safe’ sunscreens. The article is designed to assist formulators designing sunscreens with new claims and certifications


41 Dual protection against oxidative


stress Oxidative stress is a major factor influencing skin ageing and the degradation of cosmetic products. German personal care ingredient manufacturer Cosphatec describes a tocopherol/ carnosic acid blend that has been found to protect both the skin and a cosmetic formulation


45 How to design sustainable 74 Upcycled ingredients: where


personal care products Sagentia Innovation offers practical tips for the design and development of sustainable formulations that deliver commercial benefits


49 Development prospects of vegan


collagen Chinese ingredient maker Jinbo Bio-Pharma explains the necessity to develop bio-fermented vegan collagen for personal care formulations.


53 Deodorant actives: bridging the


development gap Symrise presents ex vivo and in vivo data that demonstrates the ability of propanediol caprate to significantly reduce sweat malodour. It also provides proof that the developmental gap between in vitro and in vivo studies can be bridged


59 Navigating EU cosmetics


sustainability legislation Ensuring compliance requires significant money, time, and effort from suppliers and manufacturers, as AAK Personal Care explains


64 Has biotin still yet to deliver


some secrets? Biotin has gained commercial popularity for its claimed benefits on healthy hair and nail growth yet there is limited research to support its effectiveness. For the first time, Biosyntia demonstrates the effect of biotin on endogen ceramide production


69 Second-generation water-based


insect repellents Chemian Technology describes next-generation insect repellent actives, derived from renewable, ethically sourced and sustainable feedstocks, which are offering insect repellent producers a clinically proven COSMOS -certified alternative to established synthetic materials


the future lies Smink Laboratories looks at whether the cosmetics industry has reached a point where it needs to define upcycling precisely and deeply explore the innovation it could offer


79 Nine myths about managing


regulations Traceone explains how technology has advanced to the point where it can quiet the regulations noise with cross-vertical chemical and cosmetics PLM workflows


83 How kelp is redefining eco-friendly


skin care Macro Oceans describes why kelp-derived marine ingredients fucoidan and laminarin are likely to become increasingly prevalent in innovative skin care formulations


89 Cyclic peptide to tackle wrinkles’


daily cycle Spanish cosmetic actives maker LipoTrue presents the results of in vitro and in vivo studies into a cyclic peptide on facial skin


93 Harnessing the holobiont for


atopic-prone skin Solabia highlights the importance of understanding the skin’s microbiome and the factors that lead to its disruption, while offering a bio-inspired postbiotic glycolipid solution


98 Which mushrooms are right


for your formulation? M2 Ingredients presents a guide to understanding different mushroom species and their bioactive compounds and how to best use functional mushrooms in beauty and personal care applications


17 45 83 21


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October 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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