56 SKIN MICROBIOME SymDeo PMD green ■ SymDeo B125 ■ Untreated ■ Placebo ■ As good as SymDeo B125 5
4.5 4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
T0 T6 T24 T48 5
4.5 4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
T0 * T6 T24 T48 * * Works well vs untreated 5
4.5 4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
T0 T6 T24 T48
Figure 4: Sensory analysis of sweat treated with SymDeo PMD green (INCI: Propanediol Caprate) and SymDeo B125 (INCI: 2-methyl 5-cyclohexylpentanol) as well as untreated samples. Mean Odour Score (expert rating) on a 0-5 scale, single application, 0.3% dose of the active substance. *Statistically significant reduction versus comparison benchmark (untreated or placebo), p<0.05
in a similar state compared to the untreated sample. Second, the sweat samples were subjected
to sensory analysis. As expected, for the untreated sample, the odour intensity increased over time (Figure 2). In contrast, the sweat odour development was reduced for the samples treated with propanediol caprate. Third, a chemical analysis was conducted
to track how the metabolite composition in sweat changes over time. While fresh sweat is almost free of odour-associated metabolites, their amount is constantly increasing during incubation, when sweat is aged at body temperature (Figure 3). The addition of propanediol caprate significantly reduced the conversion of non-odourous, glycine-coupled precursors into volatile and perceivable sweat odour-associated molecules and limited the production of small organic acids, most prominently acetic acid, butyric acid, propanoic acid, isobutyric acid, methylbutyric acid, and indole.
Finally, the efficacy of the ingredient was
analyzed in an in vivo study by sensory evaluation (sniff test) to confirm the ex vivo results. The results show that propanediol caprate is as effective as the positive control 2-methyl 5-cyclohexylpentanol after 6h, 24h, and 48h of its application (Figure 4). Furthermore, a significant reduction of the odour intensity was observed for propanediol caprate versus untreated and placebo.
PERSONAL CARE October 2024
Conclusion Sweating can be triggered by many situations in our daily lives, resulting in a strong need for effective solutions to prevent odour formation, ideally combining a high degree of naturalness and skin compatibility. To optimize the development of such
products, we have focused on the sweat malodour genesis and explored its complexity with our 3D ex vivo model. In this report, we have presented both the model and its first output, an effective novel deodorant SymDeo PMD green (INCI: Propanediol Caprate) which succeeded the subsequent in vivo trials. The analysis of the microbiome of
untreated and treated sweat samples revealed, that the overall microbial composition is relatively stable, and thus, propanediol caprate can be considered to be microbiome-friendly. Our ex vivo and in vivo data demonstrated,
that propanediol caprate significantly reduces sweat malodour. For the first time, we were able to prove the reduction of sweat odour markers through chemical analytics. In addition, propanediol caprate is readily biodegradable, made from 100% biobased materials, and is produced in accordance with green chemistry principles, which makes it a sustainable option for greener deodorant
formulations. Finally, we have
provided proof that the developmental gap
between in vitro and in vivo studies can be bridged.
PC
References 1. Mintel GNPD (Global New Products Database). Product item count, claims in new launches in deodorants.
www.gnpd. com. 2024 data
2. Symrise sustainability/ingredients origins exploration, blogs, and focus groups in 4 countries (USA, Brazil, China, France), July 2022
3. Natsch A. CHIMIA. 2015, 69, 414-420 4. De Pessemier B, Daneels R, Van De Wiele T, Callewaert C. Underarm body odor, the microbiome, and probiotic treatment. In: Good Microbes in Medicine, Food Production, Biotechnology, Bioremediation, and Agriculture (John Wiley & Sons). 2022
5. Nordzieke S, Diesing B, Singer M; Wittlake R, Lanfermann I, Winkler S, Schmaus G, Pesaro M, Koch C (2019). The Good, the Bad, and the Smelly - developing a representative model for the human axillary microbiome. Poster, Annual Conference of the Association for General and Applied Microbiology, poster, Mainz, Germany. 2019
6.. Nordzieke S, Diesing B, Singer M; Wittlake R, Lanfermann I, Winkler S, Schmaus G, Pesaro M, Koch C (2019). Going ex vivo - applying a representative model for the human axillary microbiome. Poster, 25th IFSCC, Milan. 2019
7. Nordzieke S, Genrich F, Behnke S, Koch C. Deodorising Ingredients with no microbiome impact; Personal Care Global. January 2022; Vol 23; Issue 11, 44-46
8. Genrich F. Supporting Consumer Confidence, Long-lasting odor protection with alcohol-free deodorant systems; Euro Cosmetics. 2024; March; 24-26
9. Genrich F, Nordzieke S, Koch C, Schmaus G. Mind Your Microbes; Gentle Malodor Protection Supports the Axillary Microbiome. Cosmetics & Toiletries; 2020; April; Vol 135; No. 4, 54-62
www.personalcaremagazine.com * *
Placebo-controlled performance
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