80 PEPTIDES
plant stem cells of Centella asiatica, which acts by reversing the skin ageing process through its plant growth factors. Centella Reversa™ is the concentrated secretome of totipotent cells from Centella asiatica. Hereafter known as the Centella asiatica
biotechnology active, this secretome contains signaling peptides that are designed to reverse the skin ageing and have a higher regenerative efficacy compared to traditional range of bioactives from Centella plant extracts or centellosides, which only represent 1-8% of the total plant assets. Therefore, PPF represent a new activity profile
for the species: a new range of bioactives (Figure 1). It is not a surprise that the global peptide
skincare market size is greatly growing, expected to reach a valuation from $1.069.64 billion in 2022 to be worth $1.975.43 billion in 2030, according to Global Peptide Skincare Industry Research Report.8 This optimistic forecast may encourage cosmetic companies to develop novelties that tackle the peptide skincare market in ways never imagined.
Growth-like factors that revert cell senescence The Centella plant is known as the longevity plant because of its incredible regenerative and plasticity properties. By using the patented Phyto-Peptidic Fractions platform (PPF), it has been possible to obtain and concentrate the molecules that give the plant these properties. The Centella asiatica biotechnology active is a 100% natural active ingredient from Centella
Figure 2: Centella natural peptides: expertise in tissue regeneration
asiatica stem cells. This ingredient acts with a rejuvenating strategy by reversing cellular senescence, rebuilding the structure of the skin from the inside, and offering an overall improvement of facial complexion, achieving a global rejuvenating effect.
Biological activity A complete panel of studies supports these claims. In vitro tests include wound healing (scratch test) and the study of senescence reversal in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) within different parameters (cell proliferation, cell detoxification, and DNA protection).
These studies demonstrate that the asset
accelerates skin regeneration, delays the effects of ageing, activates skin repair and protection processes.
In vitro wound healing: regenerative properties in HDF To see the effect of the active, a scratch test was performed, and the healing process was monitored by phase contrast microscopy. The Centella asiatica biotechnology active accelerated the healing process up to +72% at 48 hours compared to baseline conditions (Figure 3). The enhancer effect at 24 hours was higher
Figure 3: Wound healing properties of the Centella asiatica biotechnology active (in vitro)
Figure 4: β-Gal positive staining microscopic images of young and aged fibroblasts stained treated with the Centella asiatica biotechnology active
PERSONAL CARE November 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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