TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
Neurocosmetics: Beauty and the brain
Antonia Kostic – @aformulator Giorgio Dell’Acqua – New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
The inception of our tactile experience starts from the activation of nerve receptors residing within the skin, triggering a cascade of sensations. The connection between external stimuli and our body generates a wellspring of emotions that shape our feelings, behaviour and perception of the outside world.1 During the evaluation of a cosmetic product,
factors such as texture, visual appearance and fragrance are important. It is crucial to consider how these sensory elements contribute to emotional triggers and subconscious engagement, as these aspects influence purchasing decisions. In today’s cosmetic industry, formulators are
compelled to develop products with superior sensory properties.2
Other than being sensory-
pleasant, could these products also be capable of influencing someone’s emotions/mood and resulting in better skin appearance? Could their action be directly mediated by the skin's nervous system? Is this true or only a marketing myth?
Cosmetics and neurological impact Through persistent dedication to innovative skincare solutions that uphold skin vitality and prevent disease, recent scientific research within the cosmetic industry has introduced the concept of neurocosmetics.1 At the onset of the 21st century, dermatologist
Professor Laurent Misery defined neurocosmetics as ‘externally applied products that influence the cutaneous nervous system or impact the skin mediators, without being absorbed into the skin’.3 Skin is the human body’s largest and extremely
complex organ. Along with the nervous system, it originates from the ectoderm.4
When considering
the neuroanatomy of the skin, it can be divided into two main classifications: the epidermal and the dermal nervous system. Both of these entities participate in functions within the peripheral sensory, the autonomic and the central nervous systems.1,5
The skin responds
to changes in the environment by generating stimuli - such as neurotransmitters - to convey the information to the nervous system. Neurotransmitters are inherently produced
by various skin cell types including keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts, etc. Among approximately 200 neurotransmitters, 25 are detected within the skin. These are chemical molecules like substance
P, bradykinins, catecholamines, endorphins, acetylcholine, and others. The concentration of these neurotransmitters is determined by the physiological and pathological state of the individual.3,6
www.personalcaremagazine.com Neuropeptides are peptides, therefore larger
than neurotransmitters. They play a crucial role in the skin-brain connection exerting longer-lasting effects on nerves. Interacting with the various skin cells, they mediate actions important in skin inflammation. This interaction establishes a neuroimmune-
dermatologic axis that links the skin, immune and nervous systems. This axis is implicated in stress- related neurogenic inflammation, commonly observed in conditions like psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, where psychological stress and anxiety can worsen symptoms due to disrupted neuropeptide regulation.7 The fundamental principle underlying
neurocosmetic products involves using ingredients that are structurally similar to natural neuromediators. The selection of appropriate functional ingredients hinges on their ability to connect the skin with the brain (indirect effect) or by modulating physiological mechanisms within the skin (direct effect). Neurocosmetic components are developed based on two main mechanisms: either to directly interact with nerve fibre endings or to adjust the functions of non-nervous cells by acting as
agonists/antagonists of neuropeptide receptors present in these cells.1 For instance, dopamine is a neurotransmitter
produced by skin neurons upon the application of substances like Schinus terebinthifolia or Sacha inchi. The effects of dopamine at a local level are enhanced skin circulation, improved skin barrier and complexion. It differs from the effects observed at the
central level, where dopamine is linked with feelings of pleasure, satisfaction and positive mood. The positive impact is achieved on a local level leading to satisfaction with the skin’s appearance. This enhances self-esteem and overall wellbeing.1
Neurocosmetic ingredients available on the market Numerous types of neurocosmetic ingredients have made their way onto the market. In the following paragraphs, some of the compounds and mechanisms are discussed.
The cooling or warming effect with cosmetics is achieved by activating specific neurosensory receptors1 Cooling ingredients are used in cosmetic products
November 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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