64 PEPTIDES
Figure 3: The ‘skintellectual’ consumer wants to learn about their BPC products and ingredients Between 2018 and 2019, the percentage
of American female beauty and personal care consumers who agreed that ‘I don’t think natural ingredients work as well as mainstream ingredients’ increased from 11% to 13%. Meanwhile, the percentage agreeing with the statement ‘Using natural ingredients is safer’ decreased from 47% to 44% during the same time period,6,7
Scientific innovation has always been
important in the beauty and personal care market, but interest in science deepened during the COVID-19 pandemic due to the benefits it rapidly delivered in the form of life-saving vaccines and anti-viral medicines. Consumers are embracing how science and technology can also bring unique benefits to their BPC formulas. In a 2022 survey of US beauty and personal
care consumers, 62% of respondents showed interest in trying lab-engineered ingredients and 62% showed interested in hyper-personalized solutions developed using biometric data from their DNA.8
This demonstrates wide acceptance
of the merging of science and beauty, which encompasses peptides, as they are lab-designed and created molecules. A 2017 Mintel survey of US consumers of
personal care consumers indicated that 20% often research the products before purchasing.9 In 2022, a similar survey indicated that 56% usually research ingredients used in a product before purchasing.8 This illustrates that another reason for the
increasing interest in peptide-packed formulas is because of ‘skintellectuals’ - consumers who are eager to learn and understand what is in their personal care formulas and how it does what it claims to do. The Ordinary was one of the first brands to democratize peptides and be hugely transparent about their formulation ingredients, concentrations, efficacy and how they interact with other formulas, setting the bar
PERSONAL CARE November 2023
for how brands should engage the skintellectual consumer.
With the perpetuality of social media and illustrating this change in opinions.
celebrity culture, more consumers are getting non-surgical treatments or ‘tweakments’. The demographic of consumers having Botox, ‘baby Botox’ or fillers is also changing: in 2022, 27% of Botox users were under 34, compared to 21% in 2015.10
With super-charged efficacy and mechanisms
of action that can sometimes be compared to surgical treatments, peptides are naturally a partner for consumers looking to delay or enhance cosmetic treatments. Compared to injectables the cost is more accessible, there is no recovery period and risks are far lower for peptide skincare formulas. Peptides are generally well-tolerated by all skin
types, even sensitive or sensitized skin, making the formulas usable by almost everyone. Regarding formulability, there are also few interactions with other formulation ingredients so it is possible to incorporate multiple peptides, with different targets to create one high-efficacy formula. The final reason that we see a huge increase
in peptides, particularly for hair care, is due to the phenomenon of scalp ‘skinification’. Skinification is the practice of treating the skin of the scalp with the same attention, formulas, and ingredients as the skin elsewhere on the body. Skinification explains the popularity of staples
in skincare, ingredients like hyaluronic acid and peptides, growing in popularity in hair care. It also helps to explain the dramatic increase in formats like serums (+250% growth in number of launches between 2016 and 2022) that target scalp and hair health and often contain one or more peptides to deliver efficacy. With new, greener synthesis methods and
the use of artificial intelligence for decreasing the peptide development time, ingredient launches will become more rapid while still meeting the
consumer balancing act of sustainability and efficacy.
Based on the increase of ingredient launches
and the consumer trends supporting the popularity of peptides, it is to be expected that the penetration of peptides in the global BPC market will continue to accelerate.
References 1. Merrifield RB. Solid phase peptide synthesis. I. The synthesis of a tetrapeptide. J. Am. Chem. Soc. 1963;85:2149–2154. doi: 10.1021/ ja00897a025
2. Palladino P, Stetsenko DA. New TFA-Free Cleavage and Final Deprotection in Fmoc Solid-Phase Peptide Synthesis: Dilute HCl in Fluoro Alcohol. Org. Lett. 2012 Dec 21;14(24):6346-9. doi: 10.1021/ol303124r. Epub 2012 Dec 4
3. Mintel. Natural Organic Personal Care Products US. March 2010
4. Mintel. Putting the pep back into peptides. July 2013
5. Danicki J. Why Estée Lauder Is Betting Big on Cult Beauty Company Deciem. The Observer. June 20, 2017. https://observer. com/2017/06/estee-lauder-deciem- brandon-truaxe-profile/
6. Mintel. Ingredient Trends in Beauty – US. October 2018
7. Mintel. Ingredient Trends in Beauty – US. October 2019
8. Mintel. The Personal Care Consumer – US. 2022
9. Mintel. Personal Care Consumer – US. April 2017
10. Janin A. People Are Getting ‘Prejuvenation’ Botox Shots. Wall Street Journal. May 15, 2023.
https://www.wsj.com/articles/ too-young-to-have-wrinkles-but-already- getting-botox-2933eae5
www.personalcaremagazine.com PC
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