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ANTI-POLLUTION 20% 15% 10% 5% 0% 0% CTL+ (0%+FCCP)


2% n.s


0.10% 0.15% Pavlova Lutheri Extract concentration


Figure 5: Mitochondrial cytosolic ATP rate variation under environmental stress


improved by the active. The Pavlova lutheri active demonstrates a strong capacity to create a powerful protective shield of the skin cells against pollution damages.


In vitro protection against mitochondrial stress Air pollution induces damages to skin cells and have multiple entry routes into organ systems, and the mitochondria are a key target of these pollutants. Mitochondria have important roles in skin function, such as energy requirement, cell signaling, wound healing, pigmentation, vasculature homeostasis and hair growth.14 Furthermore, PM impaired mitochondrial


oxidative phosphorylation (that allow the provision of metabolites needed for the energy production) and cell migration in skin cells.15


PM can transport organic chemicals


and metals into cells which, when localizing in the mitochondria, can directly generate ROS production.16 The protective effect of Pavlova lutheri


active was studied against mitochondrial functional alterations induced by chronic environmental stress such as pollution. In vitro evaluations of cytosolic ATP production, mitochondrial membrane potential and procollagen synthesis in ‘polluted’ fibroblasts were carried out. The Pavlova lutheri active induced a


significant increase of cytosolic ATP rate compared to without the active. This result shows that the treatment with the active modulates the decrease of ATP induced by


-40% -35% -30% -25% -20% -15% -10% -5% 0%


0.20%


11% p<0.01


18% p<0.01


30% 25% 20% 15% 10% 5% 0%


43


26% p<0.01


16% p<0.01


17% p<0.01


0% CTL+ (0%+FCCP) 0.10% 0.15% Pavlova Lutheri Extract concentration Figure 6: Procollagen I neosynthesis in NHDPF under environmental stress


FCCP (environmental stress conditions), with a dose-dependent effect. The Pavlova lutheri active restores the mitochondrial energetic metabolism, preventing mitochondria functional alterations against a chronic environmental stress.


In vitro protection of the collagen metabolism In human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) exposed to PM, levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and IL-8 are increased, as well as the protein expression of MMP-1 (collagenase enzyme that breaks down type I collagen) and the expression of procollagen is decreased. Under environmental stress stimulation, the


Pavlova lutheri active helps to restore collagen type 1 neosynthesis. The active increases the procollagen type I peptide synthesis of +16% already at 0.1% and up to 26% at 0.2% of use, compared to without the active. The Pavlova lutheri extract helps to


restore collagen neosynthesis and acts to protect and maintain skin integrity, counteracting the deleterious effects of pollution on skin ageing.


For a naturally glowing, strong and resilient skin PM2.5 and ozone have been shown to increase DNA and protein damage through ROS and oxidative stress and have a positive association with skin ageing though pigmentation spots and skin wrinkling.18


Recent studies tend to


-35% p<0.01


0% To T1 month


Figure 7: Variation of the average skin spot surface, compared to T0, after one month of treatment with 1.5% of active


www.personalcaremagazine.com


12% 10% 8% 6% 4% 2% 0%


indicate that the increase of PM concentrations contributes to increased facial erythema and uneven skin tone, even in healthy human skin.19 An in vivo evaluation has been conducted


to evaluate the anti-pollution efficacy of the Pavlova lutheri active, by the improvement of the skin tone and the reduction of facial erythema and pigmentation spots. Healthy volunteers presenting facial spots have been recruited to apply a basic cream containing 1.5% of the Pavlova lutheri active. The Pavlova lutheri active at 1.5% provides


an impressive impact on skin appearance: complexion is unified and facial erythema are reduced. After 30 days of treatment, the active reduces colour intensity and surface of pigmented spots by 38%, improves skin homogeneity by 10%, has a global lightening activity, and provides a superior skin tone.


Conclusion Natura-Tec Marine CellShield AP™ has a strong protective action against pollution and environmental stress that maintains and restores skin integrity and energetic metabolism. Moreover, this powerful active strongly improves skin condition and skin tone, for a naturally glowing, strong, and resilient skin. Microalgae are a rich source of many beneficial compounds, for personal care as well as for food, feed and pharmaceuticals. This Pavlova lutheri active impressively fights the effects of pollutants on our skin, in an intense and biocompatible way; and additionally, is produced by an advanced sustainable process.


10% p<0.01


0.20%


0% To T1 month


Figure 8: Variation of the average skin homogeneity, compared to T0, after one month of treatment


November 2023 PERSONAL CARE


Average spot surface variation (%)


Cytosolic ATP rate variation (%), vs no active


Average homogeneity variation (%)


Procollagen type I Peptide variation (%), vs no active


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