PEPTIDES
A novel transdermal EGF for skincare
Lin Zhang, Zhaoming Rao - Fujian Longsheng Biotechnology Co. Liebe Griebenauw, Yao Liu – Salnova Nutritec & Ingredients
Transdermal epidermal growth factor (T-EGF) is a fusion protein that can be absorbed through the skin. In T-EGF, a transdermal short peptide (TD1) and epidermal growth factor (hEGF) are fused using a Linker (Figure 1). The function of TD1 is to improve the
transdermal transport efficacy of the EGF. This article focuses on the evolution and advantages of T-EGF for its application in novel skin care products.
Epidermal growth factor (EGF) In 1962, American scientist Stanley Cohen discovered an active ingredient that could induce newborn mice to open their eyelids and grow teeth.2
By adding this active ingredient to
cultured skin he found that it can promote the growth of human epidermal cells. This active ingredient was since named
epidermal growth factor (EGF). Dr. Cohen won the 1986 Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine jointly with Dr. Levi-Montalcini for this discovery. EGF is a hydrophilic protein comprised of 53 amino acids. It plays a significant role in promoting various cellular processes including cell division, collagen, and glycoprotein secretion. EGF is known to enhance cell plumpness, ensure tight arrangement of muscle fibres, restore skin elasticity and vitality, and effectively combat the formation of wrinkles.3-5 Modern medical research places a strong emphasis on EGF’s ability to stimulate cell proliferation and differentiation, making EGF a promising candidate for applications in skin damage repair solutions.6
Despite its promising
skincare functionality, EGF’s capacity to penetrate the intact skin barrier is limited.7 As a result, current conventional EGF
treatments are primarily applicable to treat skin
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conditions with open wounds and eye-related ailments, while it has minimal efficacy on normal condition skin with an intact barrier. This poses challenges to apply EGF in the broader field of the skincare and cosmetics industry.
Delivery of macromolecules through the skin barrier The skin is primarily composed of the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue (Figure 2). Functioning as both a defence and excretion organ, the skin fends off the intrusion of foreign substances and safeguard against the depletion of water and essential nutrients within the body. Throughout the course of extended evolutionary development, skin tissue
has developed a barrier function, with the pivotal element being the stratum corneum situated in the outermost layer of the epidermal tissue. While comprising primarily of deceased keratinocytes rich in protein and lipid components, this impervious network system poses a significant challenge for the transdermal delivery of particularly larger biomacromolecules.8 Over the years, extensive efforts have been
dedicated to finding the most effective and safe method to deliver drugs across the skin barrier. The traditional approaches can be broadly categorized into two main groups: chemical penetration enhancers and physical assistance techniques.9-11
Epidermis Dermis Hypodermis
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Schematic diagram of T -EGF structure1
Figure 2: Schematic diagram of skin structure November 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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