22 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
for their ability to provide a refreshing and soothing sensation. Menthol is a well-known antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and analgesic compound. Activation of TRP-8 receptors by menthol leads to ten to 15 minutes of a cooling sensation. However, one of the downsides of the
ingredient is the strong smell/taste and the possibility of causing a stinging or burning reaction at high concentrations. This is reduced by using derivatives such as Menthyl Lactate, Menthoxypropanediol, Menthanediol and Menthone Glycerin Acetal. Because of the aforementioned properties, this neurocosmetic ingredient is useful for alleviating skin itching.8,9 The inclusion of ingredients in cosmetic
products that create warming effects or enhance blood circulation leads to numerous advantages. Among these benefits are lip plumping, psychophysical relaxation, the sensation of fat burning and pain relief. While potent substances like capsicum
(derived from red pepper), ginger extract, or benzyl nicotinate are available, a more moderate warming agent suitable for personal care applications is Vanillyl Butyl Ether.10
Typically, it
is used at a concentration of 0.4% in skin care products to activate the TRPV-1 channel and trigger vasodilation.8
Other ingredients are able to interact with the opioid receptors found in the skin4 These receptors, known as G protein-coupled receptors, are expressed in various types of skin cells like keratinocytes, fibroblasts and melanocytes. β-Endorphin, an opioid neurotransmitter peptide, which is synthesized in the skin and central nervous system is found to interact with the µ-opioid receptors. This interaction modulates the expression of
cytokeratin 16 and the TGF-beta type II receptor in keratinocytes.4
Research has shown that a
β-endorphin/µ-opioid receptor system in the skin stimulates wound healing, keratinocyte differentiation and migration. Vitex agnus-castus, known as the chaste tree,
produces berries abundant in phytoendorphins. These substances bind to the µ-opioid receptors, prompting the natural production of β-endorphins in the body, thereby improving
the skin’s appearance. Other examples are the stimulation of β-endorphin production with Rhodiola rosea extract or Tephrosia Purpurea seed extract.1 Over the years, a decline in opioid activity
has led to age-related changes. The release of enkephalin, which primarily binds to δ-opioid receptors in the skin, induces skin relaxation and diminishes stress signals.1,4
This has garnered
attention from certain companies and Paeonia suffruticosa was introduced to the market. Derived from the peony tree, the extract is a
neurocosmetic ingredient that by inhibition of enkephalinase (that degrades enkephalins) is
able to reduce wrinkles appearance.1
It is worth
noting that the excessive activation of δ-opioid receptors may result in the dysregulation of crucial proteins for maintaining integrity, such as involucrin, loricin, and filaggrin.4
Stress and ageing are other factors that play a role in the development of neurocosmetics The fast-paced lifestyle and prolonged exposure to cortisol, a stress hormone, leads to damaging cascades which result in inflammation, collagen atrophy and reduced cell growth. The skin looks dull and fatigued due to diminished elasticity, compromised skin barrier function and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The enzyme 11 β -hydroxysteroid
dehydrogenase type 1 (11 β -HSD1) is responsible for converting cortisol into a biologically active form. Neurocosmetic ingredients such as a patented reversible 11 β -HSD1 inhibitor were developed to reduce cortisol levels in the skin.11 Neurodegeneration is an inherent process
that progresses with aging. Research has demonstrated that it affects the interaction between neurons and fibroblasts and leads to a decline in the dermis proteins such as collagen, elastin and fibroblasts. To protect skin’s appearance from aging, a novel patented ingredient was created, aiming to stimulate a neuroprotective molecule- sAPPα. This patented ingredient is sourced from the brown algae Laminaria hyperborea and Lessonia nigrescens.1 A botox-like ingredient obtained from
Lavandula stoechas oil or butterfly lavender oil provides a relaxing effect on expression lines.1
PERSONAL CARE November 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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