48 ANTI-POLLUTION A single solvent system with reversed-phase
high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry detection was used. This enabled the sphingolipids from oat oil to be separated and measured. Hair ceramides, similar to skin ceramides,
consist of various classes and species, each with unique structural features. The exact ratio of each ceramide’s classes can vary based on individual genetics, hair types, age, environmental factors and other variables. For this work, ceramides are classified based on their chemical structure (sphingosine backbones) and types of fatty acids they contain. Ceramide NS is present in the hair cortex and is involve in reinforcing the hair‘s moisture barrier and improving moisture retention.8
It contains long-chain fatty acids
(C16 to C22) attached to sphingosine.9 Ceramide NP is a major ceramide in hair and
is maintaining the structural integrity of the hair (to help to strengthen the hair cuticle).8
It also
consists of a long-chain fatty acid (C16 or C18) attached to sphingosine.9 Ceramide EOH (or EOP) is present in the
outermost layer of the hair cuticle and is helping to form a protective barrier on the hair‘s surface, preventing moisture loss and enhancing the hair‘s natural defence mechanisms.8
It contains
shorter-chain fatty acids (C14 to C16) attached to sphingosine.9 Ceramide AS is found in the hair cuticle and
is essential for strengthening the hair‘s lipid barrier.8
It consists of medium-chain fatty acids
(C16 to C20) attached to sphingosine.9 Ceramide AP is the most abundant ceramide
in hair and is contributing to the hair‘s moisture retention abilities.8
acid (C16 or C18) attached to sphingosine.9
Protection of UV exposure induced hair ceramide degradation with oat oil A blind study was performed to evaluate the ceramide protective efficacy of oat oil after exposure to UV light. Three hair shafts were
1700 +14%* 1500 1300 1100 900 700 Hair Shaft Cuticle Cortex Figure 1: Ceramides levels of the hair shaft, cuticle and cortex after UVA exposure. t-Test, Significant: ***=p<0.001, **=p<0.01 (99%) and *=p<0.05 (90%) PERSONAL CARE November 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com +19%** +43%*** It contains a long-chain fatty
TABLE 1: OAT OIL CERAMIDE CLASSES Ceramide Classes
Ceramide 2: Non-hydroxy-sphingosine (NS) Ceramide 3: Non-hydroxy-phytosphingosine (NP) Omegahydroxy-6-hydroxy-sphingosine (EOH) Alphahydroxy-sphingosine (AS)
Ceramide 6: Alphahydroxy-phytosphingosine (AP)
dipped into 0.5% oat oil in a vehicle control (C12- 15 Alkyl Benzoate), three into the vehicle control and three were untreated (control group). After the treatments, the hair shafts
(blonde Caucasian) were exposed to UVA light (irradiation 84 J/cm2
, peak at 365 nm) for six
hours. This was done to degrade the ceramide content of the hair and mimic real-life exposure to stress. The control group was not exposed to stress conditions. Ceramides were detected by using a primary
specific antibody, then revealed by using a secondary antibody coupled with a fluorophore. Fluorescent images were then collected with an epi- fluorescent microscope and analysed with ImageJ software. Image collection for the different conditions was achieved using identical conditions of acquisition (40X objective). Representative images per condition are
demonstrated in Figure 1. The images were collected in a full range of intensity of specific signal and analysed with ImageJ software. The quantification of ceramides levels was obtained by the integration of the specific fluorescence signal normalized by the evaluated area. In each image, the quantification of
ceramide levels was independently obtained for the different compartments (cuticle or cortex) and for the overall (total: cuticle and cortex). Three images per condition of sagittal section were used to quantify the carbonylation levels; the mean value and standard deviation were obtained per condition (and per compartment). A significant increase of ceramides is
Hair Identical Ceramides Including Isomers (%)
3
35 6 6 3
Hair Identical Ceramides Including Isomers and Analogs (%)
23 35 27 12 3
observed in the hair shaft, cortex and cuticle regions, upon 0.5% oat oil application in presence of UVA-stress. When compared to the control (not treated and not exposed to stress): ■ +60%*** of ceramides with 0.5% oat oil on the whole sagittal section of hair ■ +67%*** of ceramides with 0.5% oat oil on the cortex region ■ +36%*** of ceramides with 0.5% oat oil on cuticle region In situ detection of ceramides
(carbonylation) was performed by epifluorescence microscopy on sagittal sections (Figure 2). The application of 0.5% oat oil increases the ceramides levels in hair fibres, when compared to the control and vehicle control. Oat oil protects ceramide degradation from UV light, in the different hair regions (shafts, cuticle and cortex).
Increase of hair shine effect with oat oil Healthy hair with smooth outer cuticles will reflect light and give the hair a shiny appearance. Many factors, like overexposure to sun can damage cuticles and cause dull hair. In order to examine the hair shine effect of oat oil, five hair tresses (blonde Caucasian) were treated with a shampoo containing 0.5% oat oil, five with a placebo shampoo and five with a silicone shampoo containing 1% dimethicone (5cps).
The treatment, which was designed to mimic
real-life hair washing, consisted of soaking hair in water for one minute at 37°C; applying 2g of
Control (Untreated) ■ Vehicle Control + UV Exposure ■ 0.5% Oat Oil + UV Exposure ■
Ceramides Levels (RFU/Surface)
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