PEPTIDES
67
Depigmenting potential of sulfur-containing peptides
Mélanie Coirier, Pauline Minet, Elodie Aymard, Hélène Muchico, Brigitte Closs – Silab
The search for a perfect complexion is a major preoccupation, even of the youngest generations. Hyperpigmentation and complexion uniformity are among the top 5 cosmetic concerns of Millennials and of Gen Z.1 In some regions, the colour and uniformity of the skin are not only signs of beauty but also of good health, as in Asia for example.2 Forty percent of Chinese women questioned
in a survey thus declared being frustrated by the appearance of spots and other pigment irregularities.3
These defects have a
substantial impact on quality of life, which is why depigmenting products are particularly appreciated. Pigmentation of the skin is determined
biologically by the quantity of melanin, a pigment produced by melanogenesis. This process occurs in melanocytes, specialized cells present in the basal layer of the epidermis. Even though skin pigmentation is largely determined by genetics, it is also affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that cause hyperpigmentation and the appearance of pigment disorders. Many depigmenting molecules found on
the market have an activity based primarily on increasing exfoliation, destroying melanocytes, blocking the transfer of melanosomes, inhibiting the melanin synthesis pathway, or neutralizing oxidizing mechanisms that induce pigmentation. This is especially the case for sulfur-containing molecules described for their capacity to limit the different steps of melanogenesis. In particular, these molecules inhibit
tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanogenesis. In addition, the anti-free radical action of the sulfhydryl group limits the oxidative and pro-pigmenting environment of melanocytes. All these actions provide sulfur-containing molecules with transversal depigmenting efficacy.4
Ogataea siamensis, a natural factory for sulfur-containing molecules Based on the previous observations, Silab paid special attention to molecules having the sulfur group (-SH) and looked for a raw material that would naturally contain it in order to develop a depigmenting active ingredient with high added value.
The choice narrowed in on yeasts, genuine
cell factories that can produce molecules of interest, in particular the yeast Ogataea siamensis. In the plant Ervatamia coronaria,
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this yeast is located on the white and fragrant flowers. Although macroscopically the aerial parts of plants (phyllosphere) attract by their diversity of shapes, colours and fragrances, microscopically this environment constrains colonizing microorganisms to extreme conditions, in particular due to the paucity of available nutrients. In order to survive and thrive in this
phyllosphere, Ogataea siamensis had to develop adaptation mechanisms, in particular the capacity to metabolize the rare nutrients found. Among these nutrients, some arise from the degradation of the pectin of plant cell walls, a phenomenon occurring in the growth phase to allow wall disassembly. Metabolizing these compounds requires the yeast to produce sulfur-containing molecules including glutathione5
(Figure 1).
By adapting its metabolism to the constraints of the phyllosphere, Ogataea siamensis has
ABSTRACT
A defect-free complexion is extremely important in many cultures, explaining why there are many depigmenting molecules on the market. This is especially the case for sulfur-containing molecules described for their capacity to limit the different steps of melanogenesis. Based on this observation, Silab developed a natural depigmenting active ingredient, rich in sulfur-containing peptides obtained from the yeast Ogataea siamensis through bioguiding biotechnological processes. With its transversal depigmenting activity, observed in the emerging contexts of glycation and pollution, it represents the ideal solution for a revived and uniform complexion.
November 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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