Volume 24 Issue 10
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CONTENTS
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Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Elementis News
85 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
16 Silicones in cosmetics: 70 years and counting Editor Tim Probert visits Seneffe in Belgium, the European home of Dow Silicones, to find out more about a vital ingredient found in a profusion of personal care products
21 Neurocosmetics: Beauty and the brain Cosmetic scientist Antonia Kostic and New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists adviser Giorgio Dell’Acqua co-author an article on why neurocosmetics, which are products with ingredients that activate the production of neuromediators or target their receptors in the skin, present the personal care industry with new and diverse avenues for preserving and enhancing skin health.
25 Why biosurfactants are becoming key ingredients Dominic Büning of Sasol Chemicals explains the challenges and opportunities of developing and commercializing multifunctional biosurfactants, which perform in various personal care applications, for a mass market adoption of technology
32 in-cosmetics Asia 2023: What’s trending in Asia Ahead of this month’s in-cosmetics Asia 2023 trade show in Bangkok, Karen Yee of Azelis delves into the latest trends in the dynamic Asia personal care landscape. Backed by market research, the distributor has identified three core trends in the APAC region: ‘From perfect to zestful’, ‘Inner peace meets beauty’, and ‘Advanced efficacy demands’
37 Anti-pollution efficacy of strawberry ingredient Chiara Trabattoni of Esperis presents the promising results of in vitro studies of Strawberry Hormo Fruit - a concentrated juice, stabilized in glycerin. The studies demonstrate the benefits of the strawberry active ingredient in anti-pollution cosmetic products, where an antioxidant action is sought, together with a booster effect on cell vitality
41 Microalgae: skin remedy for air pollution Natura-Tec has developed an microalgae active ingredient derived from Pavlova lutheri that has been found to have strong protective action against pollution and environmental stress, while maintaining and restoring skin integrity and energetic metabolism
47 Protecting UV-exposed hair ceramide with oat oil Oat Cosmetics has developed Oat Lipid e (INCI name: Avena sativa (oat) Kernel Oil), an oat oil with a unique lipid profile and tested its efficacy to protect the ceramide content in hair after UV exposure, which effectively improves hair shine as well
51 Mastering product development programmes Mark Cresswell of Lucideon explains how the company was able to provide its partner with working formulations that they could take directly into more advanced consumer product testing trials and full manufacturing feasibility assessment by establishing suitable key formulations to develop successful product formats
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November 2023 PERSONAL CARE
57 Adapting to the impact of vegan challenge testing ISCA details its findings that demonstrates its ability to replicate initial challenge test results through an in-house vegan alternative test method. This has been achieved through ISCA’s collaboration with The Vegan Society
61 The past, present and future of peptides Sophia Bull and Joan Attia of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics explain what peptides are, what they do, and then we will investigate why there is so much attention on them right now
67 Depigmenting potential of sulfur-containing peptides French cosmetic active producer Silab has developed a natural depigmenting ingredient, rich in sulfur-containing peptides obtained from the yeast Ogataea siamensis through bioguiding biotechnological processes
73 A novel transdermal EGF for skincare Salnova Nutritec & Ingredients and Fujian Longsheng Biotechnology Co. explain the benefits of a novel transdermal epidermal growth factor, a fusion protein that can be absorbed through the skin, for skincare
79 Unlocking the potential of plant- derived peptides Vytrus Biotech has developed a 100% natural active ingredient derived from natural Centella peptides. This Centella asiatica product offers a range of benefits, including firming, anti-sagging, anti-wrinkles, reversion of cellular senescence, and the protection of telomeres
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