62 PEPTIDES The final category is enzyme-inhibiting
peptides, which reduce the activity of enzymes in the skin, like matrix metalloproteinases, and thus help to maintain skin firmness.
Peptide synthesis processes Regarding peptide synthesis in cosmetics, processes are undergoing significant advancements to align with sustainability requirements dictated by market factors. This entails a focus on greener solvents, reduced energy consumption and minimization of waste generation. Since the invention of solid phase synthetic methods by Merrifield in 1963,1
the number
of research groups focusing on peptide synthesis has grown exponentially. Based on liquid phase synthesis, molecular Hiving is a tag-assisted liquid-phase peptide synthesis technology developed by Professor Kazuhiro Chiba to increase the speed of peptide synthesis processes, meaning less energy is required, and to remove CMR solvents (solvents that are carcinogenic, mutagenic, or reprotoxic). Molecular Hiving technology uses a hydrophobic tag which acts the same as the resin of solid-phase peptide synthesis, however, the intermediates can be removed, and the reaction mixture will be homogeneous. Furthermore, in response to industry
concerns, particularly within the US, solid-phase synthesis methods without trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) are also being explored. Pasquale Palladino et al proposed novel method for cleaving from the resin and removing acid-labile protecting groups for the Fmoc solid-phase peptide synthesis.2 Hexafluoroisopropanol or trifluoroethanol
are used to replace the TFA. Additionally, there are efforts underway to harness biotechnology by utilizing bacteria and algae as micro- manufacturers for synthesizing natural peptides. These techniques require extended development time to refine the synthesis process and adapt it to accommodate new peptide sequences, especially those of greater length.
Peptides as cosmetic ingredients It was first discovered in 1973 by Dr. Loren Pickart that copper binding tripeptide GHK, isolated from human plasma, could improve
4 3 2 1 0 2000 Year
Figure 4: Global beauty and personal care launches containing peptides (as ingredients), shown as percentage of total market launches (data from Mintel GNPD)
PERSONAL CARE November 2023 2022
Figure 2: Peptides are often modified to ensure skin penetration and optimized performance
wound healing and was generally present in higher quantities in younger individuals. In the 1980s, it was proposed that GHK could be used for skin repair and wound healing. However, the first synthetic peptide designed specifically for anti-ageing benefits in skincare was launched in 2000. Between 2000 and 2010 there were several key launches of commercial cosmetic peptides for use in cosmetics products for anti-ageing benefits, to help combat skin inflammation and to downregulate melanogenesis for brighter skin. During the 2010s, launches of peptides
dramatically accelerated as ingredient companies established their knowledge of how synthetic peptides behave in the skin, and how they can be modulated to perform better and on different targets. In 2012, at the second edition of the
in-cosmetics Global awards, a peptide, Progeline™, won the Gold award for the first time. The skin of the scalp became an interesting application for peptides, for both hair loss reduction and later 2018 for hair re- pigmentation by reigniting melanogenesis.
3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0
2000 Year 2022
Figure 5: Global beauty and personal care launches containing peptides (as ingredients), shown as percentage of total market launches by category (data from Mintel GNPD)
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Figure 3: Peptides are due to feature in 4% of global BPC launches in 2023
Peptides on the consumer market In 2022, 3.5% of the global beauty and personal care (BPC) launches contained peptide ingredients, and this number is due to grow to 4% for 2023, based on year-to-date data. When looking at the fluctuations, there are several trends that can be identified. Naturally, the market was slow to respond
to the introduction of peptides as cosmetics ingredients, but until 2009 there was a gradual
Skin Care ■ Colour Cosmetics ■ Hair Care ■
(%) Total Launches
(%) Total Launches
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