ANTI-POLLUTION
shampoo, massaging for 30 seconds, leave for two minutes; rinsing with water for 30 seconds at 37°C and natural drying of the tress. The hair shine measurement was taken
before and after hair treatment. Measurement of specular reflection gloss was performed by a glossmeter. Shine is determined by projecting a beam of light at a fixed intensity and angled onto a surface and measuring the amount of reflected light at an equal but opposite angle. Images from the surface of the hair were
taken with a Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) before and after shampoo use are shown in Figure 3. Figure 3 images show that the use of a shampoo with 0.5% oat oil flattened the hair cuticles, in comparison to untreated hairs. Softer hair cuticles reflect more light and smooth hair. Oat oil provide significant higher gloss levels. The results demonstrate that the shine of
the hair is improved with application of oat oil, resulting in healthy-looking hair. As the SEM images show, silicone does not seal the cuticle layer of the hair shaft, so shine is not increased. Silicone forms an additional layer and will ‘sit’ on the surface of the hair. Silicone will not allow the shampoo to penetrate the hair. Instead, it will weigh the hair down, making it limp and dull.
Oat oil is rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid, and
tocotrienols and tocopherols (Vitamin E). Its nutrient-rich nature will nourish and strengthen hair, creating the ideal conditions to increase hair shine. Oat oil can be claimed as being a natural replacement to synthetic ingredients in haircare products like silicones where shine, lustre and a strengthening effect are needed.
Oat oil applications in hair care Oat oil is suitable for applications such as shine conditioner, hair protection oil treatment, hair repair masks, hair sun protection spray, detangle shampoo. Table 2 gives an example of application oat oil in a hair protection spray. This formulation demonstrates the exciting opportunities for this unique oat oil, resulting in protected, smooth hair with a healthy shine.
TABLE 2: HAIR PROTECTION SPRAY WITH OAT OIL Phase A
Ingredients / INCI
Dicaprylyl Ether, Tocopherol Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
B
C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside Avena sativa (Oat) kernel Oil Aqua
Sodium Gluconate
C Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Aqua, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate
D Aqua Glycerin, Aqua Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycerin, Vinegar, Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Salvia officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Thymus vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
ZADJ Aqua, Citric Acid
www.personalcaremagazine.com Control (Untreated)
Vehicle Control + UV Exposure
0.5% Oat Oil + UV Exposure
Figure 2: In situ visualisation of ceramides (sagittal view). The fluorescence emission signal for ceramides was obtained by specific immunofluorescence labelling and microscopy (objective 40x)
49
Untreated Hair
Single Application of 1% Silicone Shampoo
Single Application of 0.5% Oat Oil Shampoo
Figure 3: SEM images comparison of hair after single application of different shampoos. +42% increase hair shine compared to placebo, and by +52% compared to the silicone shampoo
Conclusion The results show that damaging the hair with sun UV exposure results in a loss of ceramides throughout the hair shaft and that application of Oat Lipid e, prior to the exposure, helps to protect the ceramide loss. While hair ceramides are not directly involved in protecting the hair from UV light, they contribute to overall hair health, which can indirectly minimize the impact of sun damage. Healthy hair with well-maintained cuticles is
better able to resist external stressors, including sun exposure. Oat oil is therefore a promising cosmetic ingredient to prevent hair ceramide degradation and to protect from the harmful effect of the sun, resulting in shiny, strong hair.
w/w (%) 2.000 2.000 0.500 0.500
50.000 0.200
0.750
40.550 2.000 1.000
0.500 0.000
References 1. Cruz CF et al. Human Hair and the Impact of Cosmetic Procedures: A Review on Cleansing and Shape-Modulating Cosmetics. Cosmetics. 2016; 3: 26
2. Marsh JM et al. Role of Internal Lipids in Hair Health. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2018; 69(5): 347-356
3. Thibaut S et al. Chronological ageing of human hair keratin fibres. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2010; 32(6):422-434
4. Mendez S et al. Damaged hair retrieval with ceramide-rich liposomes. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2011; 62: 565-577
PC
5. Dario MF, Baby AR and Velasco MVR. Effects of solar radiation on hair and photoprotection. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology. 2015; 153: 240-246
6. Signori V. Review of the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet and visible radiation on hair structure and options for photoprotection. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2004; 55(1):95-113
7. Markham JE, Jaworski JG. Rapid measurement of sphingolipids from Arabidopsis thaliana by reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry. Rapid Communications Mass Spectrometry. 2007; 21(7):1304-14
8. Sandra M et al. Damaged hair retrieval with ceramide-rich liposomes. Journal of Cosmetics Science. 2011; 62: 565-577
9. Masukawa Y, Tsujimura H, Narita H. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry for comprehensive profiling of ceramide molecules in human hair. Journal of Lipid Research. 2006; 47(7): 1559-71
November 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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