PEPTIDES
increase in the number of launches, primarily in skincare and colour cosmetics, containing peptides. Multinational companies were the first brands
to harness the power of peptides in their skincare formulas. Early launches include Chanel’s Age Delay Rejuvenating Serum, highlighting a “micro-peptide” to “activate skin production”, and Neutrogena’s Healthy Skin Visibly Firm Cream containing “active copper content and… a patented delivery system which stimulates collagen and elastin and jump-starts skin’s own ability to repair itself”. In 2003, Olay launched their Regenerist
line containing an “amino-peptide complex to regenerate and renew skin’s outer layer”, and it rapidly became a best-selling product. The Regenerist line still harnesses peptides in most launches today. The use of peptides in hair care was slower
to develop. One of the first brands to use peptides in hair care was Philosophy with its Shear Splendor range launched in 2006 to help “improve the overall health of the hair follicle” claiming “what peptides have done for your skin, they can now do for your hair.” In 2008, Rocasuba bought RapidLash to the US market in the first eyelash growth serum launch, and it remains one of the most popular brands in the category even 15 years later. From 2009 to 2011, the percentage of peptide launches in skincare jumped by almost 1%, an acceleration from prior years, before declining until 2017. This could be attributed to the early 2010s
scares surrounding parabens and sulfates which caught consumer attention causing a sharp turn to more ‘natural’ ingredients and formulations. In 2009 50% of US consumers said that
natural and organic products are ‘healthier than traditional personal care products’.3
A 2012 Mintel
survey indicated that consumer awareness of peptides, specifically, was low, showing that 42% of French beauty and personal care consumers had not heard of peptides and only 10% of consumers look for peptides in their cosmetics. At the same time, 26% of French consumers looked for a similar anti-ageing active, retinol, in their facial skincare.4 Colour cosmetic launches containing peptides
peaked in 2011 and have remained relatively flat since then. Hair care launches containing peptides jumped in 2013 with the launch of Joico’s patented Bio-Advanced Peptide Complex for hair repair, across many of their ranges. Also in 2013, Deciem launched one of the first cosmetic treatment serums for increasing hair density under their Grow Gorgeous brand, and it became hugely popular.
growth and in 2016 the brand was divested to The Hut Group.5
This earned the brand 700% year-over-year In 2021, an interesting shift
occurred in the distribution between the type of colour cosmetics that contained peptides: mascaras overtook lip colour demonstrating the interest in lash growth enhancement. From 2017 to today, the trend in all categories
indicates a steady increase in the percentage of launches containing peptides. Although
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multinational companies are still formulating heavily with peptides, interestingly, indie brands are leading with the most compelling and popular launches. Deciem’s The Ordinary brand launched in
2016 with a line of ten products, including ‘Buffet’ containing six peptides, and it was this brand that propelled Deciem into superstardom, culminating in an investment from Estée Lauder in 2017. In a similar story, indie darling Drunk Elephant launched their Protini Polypeptide Cream in 2018, claiming “9 Signal Peptides”. In 2019, Shiseido bought the brand in the biggest acquisition of the cosmetic industry that year. Also in 2019, Peter Thomas Roth launched a serum containing 21 peptides with packaging identifying them by tradename and the area of the face that they target. In 2018, The Ordinary launched their first hair
serum, Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density containing two peptides, one of which featured in their original Grow Gorgeous formulas. In the same year, heritage Parisian brand Phyto launched the first anti-grey hair treatment on the market using a peptide called RE30. Recent peptide-containing hair launches that have been wildly successful have come from US brands Briogeo and Vegamour and British brand Inkey List.
Drivers of consumer interest There are several explanations of this increasing interest in peptides. It can partly be attributed to the consumer perception that natural ingredients aren’t necessarily as effective or safe as synthetic ones.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
November 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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