TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
Sensory receptors for light, smell and taste in the skin When exposed to light, photoreceptors undergo a conformational change from a resting to a signalling state. Some of these receptors are opsins, which are light-sensitive G-protein receptors. Within the retina, opsins regulate circadian rhythm and pupillary light reflex. Interestingly, diverse scientific evidence has attested their presence in the skin of both animals and humans.12, 13 A diverse range of opsins is found to be
expressed across various skin cell types, such as keratinocytes, melanocytes, dermal fibroblasts, and hair follicle cells. It has been shown that opsins play a role in regulating several physiological processes within the skin, such as wound healing, melanin production, photoageing and hair growth. However, numerous studies have been
conducted on cultured skin cells and additional studies or research are required to validate these scientific findings.13
In the quest to support skin
health, there has been a growing interest in understanding and activating photoreceptors in the skin. For example, one potential topical
application involves incorporating a blue light filter into a broad-spectrum sunscreen formulation for individuals prone to hyperpigmentation.12 Another type of G-protein-coupled receptors
are the olfactory receptors, found in the nasal olfactory region where each neuron is coupled with a single olfactory receptor. To detect a specific scent, a combination of neurons must be simultaneously activated. One of these olfactory receptors, OR2AT4,
is expressed in human keratinocytes. Research has demonstrated that certain odorants, like Sandalore, can bind to OR2AT4 and stimulate the release of ATP from keratinocytes, triggering the trigeminal neuron. Activation of this receptor has been associated with enhanced cell proliferation and migration, suggesting a potential positive impact on wound healing.12 The bitter taste receptors, TAS2R16 and
TAS2R10, have been shown to exert a protective effect against skin aging. The study was concluded on the HaCaT cells and demonstrated their upregulation in response to D-galactose treatment. These anti-ageing benefits associated with bitter taste receptors are attributed to their ability to modulate cellular senescence and enhance wound healing capabilities.14 Creating cosmetic products that specifically
target these receptors holds the potential to unlock a diverse array of beneficial physiological effects for the skin. This presents an opportunity for innovation within the cosmetic industry, opening up a novel frontier for enhancing skin health and beauty.
Conclusion Neurocosmetics is a new trend in skincare, involving products with specialized ingredients activating the production of neuromediators or targeting their receptors in the skin. These products deliver unique sensory sensations (e.g. cold, warm), maintain neurohormonal balance (e.g. skin dopamine), and address physiological
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changes like enhancing the skin barrier and reducing wrinkles.1,15 Despite humans typically categorizing
touch, smell, taste, sound and sight as separate experiences, an increasing number of studies have revealed the connections among these sensations. Regarding cosmetics, it has been demonstrated that both texture and odour have a notable impact on wellbeing, as well as on the overall liking of the product. These factors influence consumers’ preferences and purchase choices.16
Gaining a
comprehensive understanding of the connection between the skin and the brain presents diverse avenues for preserving and enhancing skin health. Neurocosmetics offer a holistic approach to
skincare, combining science and sensory pleasure for more effective and enjoyable skincare routines. It leads to improvements in physical appearance, inner satisfaction and overall wellbeing. This revolution is an exciting paradigm shift in the cosmetic industry.
References 1. Rizzi V, Gubitosa J, Fini P, Cosma P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics. 2021 Jul 16;8(3):66
2. Lombardi SA. Emotional effects induced by lip balms containing different emollients. Household and Personal Care Today. 2017;12(3)
3. Misery L. Les nerfs à fleur de peau. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2002, 24, 111–116
4. Bigliardi PL, Dancik Y, Neumann C, Bigliardi-Qi M. Opioids and skin homeostasis, regeneration and ageing – What’s the evidence? Exp. Dermatol. 2016 Aug;25(8):586–91
5. Roosterman D, Goerge T, Schneider SW, Bunnett NW, Steinhoff M. Neuronal Control of Skin Function: The Skin as a Neuroimmunoendocrine Organ. Physiological Reviews. 2006 Oct;86(4):1309–79
6. Misery L. Skin, immunity and the nervous system. Br. J. Dermatol. 1997, 137, 843–850 7. Bigliardi PL, Bigliardi-Qi M, Buechner S,
Rufli T. Expression of μ-Opiate Receptor in Human Epidermis and Keratinocytes. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 1998 Aug;111(2):297–301.
8. Deckner G. Cool Off or Warm Up with Neurocosmetics. UL Prospector. 4 June 2020. https://knowledge.ulprospector. com/10629/pcc-cooloff-or-warm-up-with- neurocosmetics/
9. Oz M, El Nebrisi EG, Yang KHS, Howarth FC, Al Kury LT. Cellular and Molecular Targets of Menthol Actions. Front. Pharmacol. 2017 Jul 18;8:472
10. Ríos F, Alberola A, Melendez J, Muedra G, Trigo F. A Validated HPLC Method for the Determination of Vanillyl Butyl Ether in Cosmetic Preparations. Cosmetics. 2017 Feb 10;4(1):9
PC
11. Imfeld D, Jackson E, Seroul P. Inhibition of cutaneous cortisol activation: A novel approach to protect skin from stress induced damage and aging. 30th IFSCC Congress. 2018, S1–S501
12. Dalesio NM, Barreto Ortiz SF, Pluznick JL, Berkowitz DE. Olfactory, Taste, and Photo Sensory Receptors in Non-sensory Organs: It Just Makes Sense. Front. Physiol. 2018 Nov 27;9:1673
13. Suh S, Choi EH, Atanaskova Mesinkovska N. The expression of opsins in the human skin and its implications for photobiomodulation: A Systematic Review. Photoderm. Photoimm. Photomed. 2020 Sep;36(5):329–38
14. Chung MG, Kim Y, Cha YK, Park TH, Kim Y. Bitter taste receptors protect against skin aging by inhibiting cellular senescence and enhancing wound healing. Nutr. Res. Pract. 2022;16(1):1
15. Official Journal of the European Union. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products.
16. Courrèges S, Aboulaasri R, Bhatara A, Bardel MH. Crossmodal Interactions Between Olfaction and Touch Affecting Well-Being and Perception of Cosmetic Creams. Front. Psychol. 2021 Aug 13;12:703531
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