ANTI-POLLUTION
Protecting UV-exposed hair ceramide with oat oil
Emilie Gombert, Cara Dewis – Oat Cosmetics
The hair shaft is composed of a cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is the outermost protective layer (consisting of overlapping scale-like cells) that provides the hair sensory and shine characteristics. The cuticles overlap like roof shingles,
protecting the hair from chemical and physical treatments.1
of hair and is responsible for its mechanical strength and pigmentation.1 The innermost layer is the medulla. The
structural integrity of hair is due to a specific chemical composition, primarily keratin proteins, lipids, and water. The proteins are complex natural
compounds that contribute to hair’s physicochemical properties. Hair is also comprised of 1-9% lipids, which contribute to enhanced conditioning properties such as flexibility, surface gloss, and lubricity of hair.2 The majority of lipids are cholesterol,
free fatty acids, triglycerides, and ceramides. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the structure of the hair and act as a part of the intercellular cement that holds the cuticle cells of the hair shaft together.3 The presence of ceramides in the hair
structure enhances its strength and resistance to damage, reinforcing the hair shaft, making it less prone to breakage, split ends, and other forms of mechanical damage. They contribute to the overall integrity of the hair, allowing it to withstand external stresses and maintain its structural form.4
Importance of hair protection from sun exposure Whilst knowledge on the importance of protecting the skin from the sun is mainstream, the consequence of sun damage on hair is not as well documented. Sun exposure can break down the proteins and lipids in the hair cuticle, leaving the hair dry, brittle, and dull. Prolonged exposure to the sun can have
various damaging effects on the structure, composition and appearance of the hair, as detailed below. ■ Effect on hair strength: UV light from the sun can strip the hair of its natural moisture, leading to dryness and brittleness. The cuticle can become damaged, resulting in rough and porous hair due to the breakdown of the proteins and lipids (particularly a depletion of ceramides).5 ■ Effect on hair structure: UV light can weaken
www.personalcaremagazine.com
the protein structure of the hair which gives hair its strength. This can result in hair that is more prone to breakage, split ends and frizz.5 ■ Effect on hair appearance: Sun-damaged hair appears dull and lacks the natural shine and lustre. The damaged cuticles reflect light less effectively, making the hair look flat and lifeless.6
Oat oil as multifunctional and sustainable ingredient Oat Cosmetics developed Oat Lipid e (INCI name: Avena sativa (oat) Kernel Oil), a superior oat oil with a unique lipid profile. This oat oil is rich in polar lipids, including ceramides (1-2%), triacylglycerols (56%), cholesterol/sterols (14%), as well as antioxidants such as tocotrienol and tocopherol (400ppm) and free fatty acids (9%) (of which 40% oleic acid C18:1n9 and 38% linoeic acid C18:2n6). Oat oil has many functional properties including moisturising, antioxidant and a soothing agent for the hair. Oat oil is made from selected batches of
Avena sativa which are cleaned, dehulled and size separated. Oat kernels are then stabilized by heat treatment and flaked before extracting in ethanol bath. Finally, solids and ethanol are removed.
This oat oil is naturally sourced, a by-product
of the food industry (reusing waste product) and biodegradable. This work presents its efficacy to protect the ceramide content after UV exposure in hair as well as improving hair shine.
ABSTRACT
Ceramides are lipids that naturally occur in the hair strands. The hallmark of a healthy hair strand is a tightly packed cuticle layer which maintains its strength, elasticity, and shine, without it, hair becomes vulnerable to unwanted damage. The main purpose of ceramides is to 'glue' cuticle layers together to ensure the hair will lay flat and remain intact. Although ceramides occur naturally in the hair, sun exposure (UV light), over time, depletes them leading to raised cuticles, resulting in the loss of moisture, causing the hair strands to become fragile. Oat Cosmetics have developed Oat Lipid e (INCI name: Avena sativa (oat) Kernel Oil), a superior oat oil with a unique lipid profile and tested its efficacy to protect the ceramide content in hair after UV exposure, which effectively improves hair shine as well.
Oat oil ceramide classes analysis Ceramides are sphingolipids with diverse physiological roles. A ceramide is composed of a sphingoid base and a fatty acid, which are linked via an amide bond. An analysis of ceramides content was undertaken by using the sphingolipid analysis as described in 2007 by Markham and Jaworski.7
November 2023 PERSONAL CARE The cortex is the major component
47
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
