PEPTIDES
69
Figure 4: Effect of Ogataea siamensis extract on the production of melanin by Silabskin RE treated with a solution of B[a]P
48% and the production of melanin by 81%. These efficacies are based on the capacity of the product to limit the expression of pro- pigmenting receptors related to pollution (Ah receptor) or to advanced glycation end- products (RAGE) in melanocytes. The harmful effects of pollution and
glycation on cutaneous pigmentation are therefore limited.
A cosmetic performance in Caucasian and Asian volunteers These results translate into depigmenting cosmetic benefits, demonstrated in Caucasian and Asian volunteers and compared to ascorbyl glucoside, a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C and a reference molecule in the depigmenting care market. The Caucasian panel was composed of 18
healthy female volunteers (mean age 56 ± 8 years), pre-selected on the presence of pigment spots and a high level of AGEs. They applied the placebo or the Ogataea siamensis yeast extract at 2.5% to one half of the face twice daily for 56 days. The Asian panel was composed of 2 groups
of healthy female volunteers pre-selected on the presence of pigment spots, dark skin, and a history of living in a polluted city (at least 15 years). The Ogataea siamensis yeast extract group was composed of 35 healthy female volunteers (mean age 49 ± 9 years) and the placebo group of 36 healthy female volunteers (mean age 50 ± 10 years). Each group applied the yeast extract at 2.5% or the placebo on the entire face for 56 days. Finally, the ascorbyl glucoside group included 12 healthy Caucasian female volunteers between 49 and 62 years of age (mean age 57 ± 4 years), also with pigment spots on the face and a high level of AGEs. The cosmetics benefits analyzed included
the anti-spot action of the product as well as its effect on complexion radiance. The results were confirmed with a subjective evaluation in the Asian and Caucasian panels.
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November 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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