28 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
(CARINEX SL L) and a higher foaming high- acidic sophorolipid type (CARINEX SL A), see Figure 1. Scientific studies showed sophorolipids to feature a beneficial antimicrobial (bacteriostatic) effect against Cutibacterium acnes (formerly known as Propionibacterium acnes) that inhibits their proliferation on skin. Furthermore, sophorolipids feature a high
microbiome and skin compatibility as well as skin moisturization properties.1
However,
it is likely that there is a synergistic effect of these benefits in vivo on human skin, which is not necessarily apparent when conducting classical in vitro experiments. Furthermore, sophorolipids are described as active against dandruff on dry and oily scalps. Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are
another subgroup of glycolipids, consisting of a hydrophilic sugar core of 4-O-β-D- mannopyranosyl-D-erythritol with multiple hydrophobic residues. Typically, those include two fatty acid chains with different degrees of acetylation. Depending on the acetylation degree and position, they are distinguished between MEL-A, MEL-B, MEL-C and MEL-D with an increasing polarity from MEL-A towards MEL-D. In cosmetic formulations, MELs are mostly used for damaged hair repair. Because they also show interesting properties in regard to skin moisturization, and barrier repair they are an interesting alternative for ceramides.1 Overall, biosurfactants can offer a variety
of exciting scalp, skin, and hair care benefits. However, biosurfactants feature very different molecular structures compared to traditional surfactants that allow for, but also need, novel formulation design approaches. For example, these materials are more compatible with cationic surfactants and polymers than classical surfactants, although featuring anionic groups. However, when determining the best
biosurfactant solution, it is important for formulators to work directly with raw material manufacturers so they understand the product type, current surfactants being used and the benefits they are looking for. There is no single set formulation for certain kinds of products, so consultation is often required to discuss customization and other adjustments that will produce the desired benefits and optimal performance in final products.
Key to innovation: collaboration While commercial biosurfactants have been around for several decades, the primary barriers for a widespread adoption of the technology within the personal care industry are cost of production, performance linked to the raw material quality and purity and scalability of production. Only recently have significant technological
improvements of the downstream process, which involves separating and purifying the biosurfactants out of the fermentation broth, come to fruition. Thanks to these improvements, the production of biosurfactants has become more economically available and scalable. On the formulation side, there are similar
challenges associated with the widespread use of biosurfactants. Manufacturers are faced
PERSONAL CARE November 2023
with creating new formulation designs while ensuring scalability, affordability, and optimal performance. Biosurfactants have not reached full mass
market volumes yet, which is why formulators view them as more expensive than conventional surfactants. However, prices are expected to change as raw material producers obtain economies of scale and further optimize production processes. As raw material manufacturers continue to
work on the ramp-up of production capacities and the development of new biosurfactants variants, producers of consumer products are more focused on the establishment of understanding formulation and adopting biosurfactants in known formulations. There is a risk that the industry is currently
running into the problem of innovation silos, as individual teams are stuck in innovation cycles focusing exclusively on individual product lines or parts of the value chain. From an innovation strategy perspective, these silos limit the ability of the personal care industry to go through a substantial sustainability-driven transformation, including the adoption of potentially disruptive technologies like biosurfactants. Given the ambitious sustainability targets of
all major industry players for the upcoming years and the potential contribution of this technology to achieve those goals, there is no time to waste. The industry needs a fundamental shift in
how it has largely operated over the last few decades. It requires collaboration between various companies, start-ups, and universities to drive this technology forward. Partners need to be willing to jointly work
on formulation design guidelines, application data and molecular structure performance relationships to ensure the future growth of biosurfactants. As an example, in March
2022, Sasol Chemicals began working closely with a partner on the commercialization of biosurfactants beyond sophorolipids.
Conclusion Overall, while work continues to improve existing biosurfactants and incorporate them into formulations, there are many benefits to adopting this new ingredient into future products. However, companies should keep in mind this will require an open mind, collaboration, and patience with changing existing formulations to create more sustainable products. The overall goal for the industry is to create
personal care products with lower carbon footprints while unlocking premium performance and addressing consumer needs and evolving industry trends. Sasol Chemicals is working to commercialize various multifunctional biosurfactants that perform in various personal care applications, aiming for a mass market adoption of technology. Every household should have access to
sustainable products for their personal care needs, and biosurfactants are becoming a key ingredient in these products.
References 1. Adu SA, Twigg MS, Naughton PJ, Marchant R, Banat IM. Glycolipid Biosurfactants in Skincare Applications: Challenges and Recommendations for Future Exploitation. Molecules. 2023, 28, 4463. https://doi. org/10.3390/molecules28114463
2. Shah J, Arslan E, Cirucci J, O’Brien J, Moss D. J. Surfact. Deterg. 2016, 19, 1333-1351. https://
doi.org/10.1007/s11743-016-1867-y
3. Briem AK, Bippus L, Oraby A, Noll P, Zibek S, Albrecht S. Adv. Biochem. Eng. Biotechnol. (2022) 181: 235–270 https://doi. org/10.1007/10_2021_194
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