70 PEPTIDES
Anti-spots The visibility of spots was assessed in the Asian panel by Mexameter® and in the Caucasian and ascorbyl glucoside panels by C-Cube® Dermoscope and trained evaluators using digital photos. The results showed that the colour difference between a hyperpigmented zone and a zone without spot is reduced as of 28 days of twice daily application by 7.1% in the Asian panel (reduction of melanin index) and by 11.0% in the Caucasian panel (parameter ITA°). This effect continues after 56 days with
a 8.0% and 9.5% reduction, in both panels respectively (Figure 5). Ascorbyl glucoside also attenuates
pigment spots, with a 7.5% reduction in colour difference after 28 days of treatment (non- significant difference), reaching 12.9% after 56 days of treatment (P = 0.0376). This effect was observed in 70% of volunteers. The efficacy of the active ingredient is
therefore comparable to that of ascorbyl glucoside for the attenuation of pigment spots. In addition, the evaluators considered that
the active ingredient improved complexion uniformity in the Caucasian panel, with a preference of 94% for photos at D56 after treatment in comparison to before treatment. This effect is comparable to ascorbyl glucoside, with a preference of 90% for photos after treatment compared to before treatment.
Complexion radiance A visual scoring by trained evaluators using digital photos highlighted that as of 28 days, the Ogataea siamensis yeast extract improves the parameters of complexion radiance in Asian subjects, with a 4.3% increase of reflection and a 3.9% increase of pink colour. The olive colour, brown colour and light brown colour are reduced by 5.0%, 1.1% and 2.3%, respectively. These results intensify after 56 days of
treatment and are also demonstrated in Caucasian volunteers, with an increase of 8.8% of reflection, of 19.9% of pink colour and a decrease of 11.1% of olive colour. These results are better than those of ascorbyl glucoside (+6.6%, +7.9% and -7.5% respectively, non- significant difference).
Subjective evaluation These results were confirmed by the volunteers themselves, since in the Asian panel, 91% of them find their spots less visible, their complexion more uniform and their skin more luminous after 56 days of application. 94% of them also consider their complexion more radiant.
The same favourable perception of the
efficacy of the active ingredient is seen in the Caucasian panel, as 71% of them find their spots less visible, 88% consider the complexion to be more luminous and uniform and 76% find it lighter. They are also 82% to notice their eye contour less dark. Tested in Caucasian and Asian volunteers,
the active ingredient therefore attenuates pigment defects. The complexion is lighter and more uniform, radiance is revived.
PERSONAL CARE November 2023 DO Colour difference: ++ D56 Colour difference: +
Figure 5: Visualization of the effect of the active ingredient on the reduction of colour difference in the Asian panel
Conclusion Silab selected the yeast Ogataea siamensis because of its unique metabolism involving the synthesis of sulfur-containing molecules that enable it to adapt to the extreme conditions of the phyllosphere of the white flower Ervatamia coronaria. The company’s expertise in biotechnologies has resulted in the development of a bioguiding method to optimize this potential for producing sulfur- containing molecules. This process enabled the company to obtain
a fraction enriched in sulfur-containing peptides of natural origin and with depigmenting potential. As a result, Lightskin® acts on the different steps of melanogenesis, providing a transversal depigmenting action observed in human melanocytes from Caucasian and Asian subjects. This efficacy has also been shown in the pro-
pigmenting contexts of pollution and glycation and confirmed in vivo, in volunteers selected for their pigment spots, but also for their high level of cutaneous AGEs (Caucasian panel) and their history of living in a polluted urban environment (Asian panel). In these conditions, Lightskin tested at 2.5% in an emulsion attenuated visibility of pigment spots, rendered the skin more uniformity and lighter and revived complexion.
References 1. Global Cosmetic Industry. 2022 2. Nkengne A, Robic J, Lua BL. The effect of air pollution on the skin colour and tone of Chinese women: A multicentre cohort study. Skin Res. Technol. 2021 May; 27(3): 428-434
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4. Jara JR, Aroca P, Solano F, Martinez JH, Lozano JA. The role of sulfhydryl compounds in mammalian melanogenesis: the effect of cysteine and glutathione upon tyrosinase and the intermediates of the pathway. Biochim. Biophys. Acta. 1988 17 Nov; 967(2): 296-303
5. Yurkiv M, Kurylenko O, Vasylyshyn R, Dmytruk K, Fickers P, Sibirny A. Gene of the transcriptional activator MET4 is involved in regulation of glutathione biosynthesis in the methylotrophic yeast Ogataea (Hansenula) polymorpha. FEMS Yeast Research. 2018 Mar 1; 18 (2)
6. Yurimoto H, Shiraishi K, Sakai Y. Physiology of Methylotrophs Living in the Phyllosphere. Microorganisms. 2021 Apr 12; 9( 4): 809
7. Vogeley C, Esser C, Tüting T, Krutmann J, Haarmann-Stemmann T. Role of the Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor in Environmentally Induced Skin Aging and Skin Carcinogenesis. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2019 Nov 28; 20(23): 6005
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