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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE


COVER STORY: ELEMENTIS


Clay-based rheology for enhanced UV protection


Consumer demand for sun care products is on the rise, driven by the growing recognition of sun protection as an essential aspect of maintaining skin health. In an era of increasingly informed consumers, their expectations extend beyond basic UV protection. They now seek products boosting high SPF, water resistance, lightweight feel, and natural ingredients. With consumers setting such high standards,


formulators face the formidable task of creating sunscreens that meet these multifaceted needs. Elementis provides a range of solutions that can address challenges faced by formulators, including enhancing suspension and stability, improving film thickness, and boosting SPF and water resistance in sun care products.


Enhanced suspension and stability For a long-lasting protection of the skin, sun care formulations must remain stable under extreme conditions, like water immersion and high temperatures, and keep an intact structure to suspend UV filters in the best way. BENTONE GEL® and BENTONE® LUXE systems are known to withstand heat and provide the ideal network to stabilise sunscreen actives as shown below on the microscopic pictures with the improved inorganic filter dispersion in a mineral sunscreen with BENTONE GEL® TN V. The UV filters are dispersed evenly, and the emulsion has a more uniform droplet size dispersion leading to better overall stability of the sunscreen, which is key especially at high temperatures.


with BENTONE GEL® TN V November 2023 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●


MANUFACTURE GLOBAL


Immediately after application


Sunscreen formula with BENTONE® LUXE WN


Control without BENTONE® LUXE WN After 30 minutes


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Improved film thickness and integrity To provide optimum protection, a sun care formulation must create an even layer on the skin with a stable film thickness and integrity to guarantee a uniform long-lasting coverage with UV filters. Because of its excellent thixotropic rheology, BENTONE GEL® and BENTONE® LUXE systems build a stable structure leading to an even application and improved film thickness. When a formula with BENTONE GEL® and


BENTONE® LUXE technology is applied to an uneven surface, the emulsion creates an uniform layer on the surface while the emulsion without migrates across the surface, settling into valleys and pores, leaving unprotected areas. The product does not drip or evaporate


off the skin due to the higher yield value and thixotropic behaviour of BENTONE GEL® and BENTONE® LUXE based systems.


without BENTONE GEL® TN V


Sunscreen formula with BENTONE® LUXE WN


Control without BENTONE® LUXE WN


Figure 3: Emulsion with BENTONE® LUXE WN leaving a uniform coverage after application


Using a specific surface metrology, the


improved coverage with a BENTONE® LUXE XO based hybrid sunscreen formulation on a PMMA plate could be visualized on a microscale level (area of 3x3 mm). Darker blue areas are covered with less sunscreen leading to inferior protection (See figure 7).


Boost SPF and water resistance Improved film thickness and integrity automatically leads to a boost in SPF and an improved water resistance. Two water-in-oil


Figure 1: More uniform UV filter and droplet size dispersion in a mineral W/O sunscreen with BENTONE GEL® TN V at 100x magnification


PERSONAL CARE November 2023


Figure 2: BENTONE GEL® and BENTONE® LUXE systems create an even layer after application for better protection


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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