78 FORMULATIONS
D Lavender Essential Oil Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Oil
Lemongrass Essential Oil
Symbio Solv Clear Plus (Dr Streatmans)
Glicerina 99.5 SABO S.P.A
E F
G Cymbopogon schoenanthus Oil Rosemary Essential Oil Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, 1.5 Aqua, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Citric Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Sodium Surfactin
Glycerin
Citric Acid (50%) Sodium benzoate
Potassium Sorbate Sodium Chloride 2.0
q.s to pH 4.7-5.2
0.5 0.4
q.s. to 100 10.000-
12.000 cps
Procedure: Charge deionized water into mixing vessel. With rapid but smooth agitation slowly blend in Jaguar Excel and mix until completely uniform add trace amounts of citric acid to hydrate and swell. (A). Slowly add Empigen BS/FA-MB to Jaguar Excel and mix until uniform (A/B). In separate vessel add remaining deionized water, then sequentially add Pureact 138 and Empicol CZ/N in aliquots and mix until uniform and clear (C). Slowly add phase A/B to phase C with mixing. Mix until uniform and clear. Combine essential oils, Symbio Solv Clear Plus and glycerin and mix until uniform (note glycerin added to keep phase mobile) (D). Add phase D to main vessel and mix until uniform. Add preservatives in F and mix until uniform and clear. Adjust pH to 4.7-5.2 with 50% citric acid solution (E). Add 0.2% aliquots of sodium chloride until required viscosity obtained. Properties: Appearance: Crystal Clear, Viscous liquid pH: 4.7 – 5.2 Viscosity*: 10,000 – 12,000 cps Stability: Passed 12 weeks 45°C, 20°C and 5°C and 3 F/T cycles
KOSTER KEUNEN SORBET HAIR PASTE
PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Deionized Water Pemulen TR-1
Sodium Hydroxide Optiphen
Zemea Propanediol PVP K-90
Colloidal Kaolin
B Orange Wax Bayberry Wax
Kostol Natural E Kester Wax K-60P
Stearic Acid
INCI NAME Aqua
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol Propanediol PVP
Kaolin
Citrus Aurantis (Orange) Peel Wax Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Wax
Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Polyhydroxystearic Acid Stearic Acid
Extra Virgin Olive Oil Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
3 4 3 3 1 1
1 1
5 MontanovTM L C MelanoGrayTM D True Vitamin Shot CO (Essencia AG) E pH regulator Sodium C14-22 Alcohols (and) C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside 2.0
Citrus Reticulata Extract / Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Extract (and) Acetyl Tyrosine (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Aqua/Water
Fragrance hydroxide 30 %
aq.sol. Sodium Hydroxide (and) Aqua/Water 2.0 0.25 q.s.
Procedure: Heat phase A to 40°C, add A2 under agitation and heat to 75°C. Heat phase B under agitation also to 75°C. At 75°C pour phase B into phase A under homogenization. Cool down under agitation. Add MelanoGrayTM and afterwards, add the perfume under agitation into phase A/B below 40°C. If necessary, adjust pH to 4.5-5.0 using Sodium hydroxide 30 %
aq.sol.
2/20-10030/188-7 SPLR % W/W
2
60.6 0.1
0.3 1.0 3.0 4.0 2.0 6.0 6.0
5.0 3.0
3.0 6.0
Procedure: Begin heating water to 80°C and add Phase A ingredients one by one, mixing each until uniform. Combine Phase B ingredients, and heat to 80 – 85°C until melted. Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation and mix at high speed until emulsion is uniform. Check pH, adjust to ~7 if needed. Cool to 55 - 60°C and pour into containers.
Suppliers: 1. Koster Keunen, Inc 2. Lubrizol 3. Brenntag Specialties 4. DuPont 5. Maroon Group MMP
SUNSHINE SPRAY PHASE INGREDIENTS
A DI Water
Tetrasodium EDTA PolyCast® 3
Matte Lite® SC Xanthan Gum Clearogel® SG
B Vegelane®
Pomegranate Oil Oat oil
CrystalCast® MM *
C Skin'ential™ DC 5DL Nayad®
FG Preservative AP5-30A
INCI NAME Aqua
Polyglycerin-3 Montmorillonite
Sclerotium Gum (Scleroglucan) Vegetal alternative to Squalane Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Beta-Sitosterol (&) Sucrose Stearate (&) Sucrose Distearate (&) Cetyl Alcohol (&) Stearyl Alcohol
7-DHC 5% in Octyldodecanol Yeast Beta-Glucan
SPLR % W/W 87.70 0.05 3.00 0.70 0.15
1 1
1 0.15 1 1
1.75
0.75 2.00
1 2.00 1.00
2 0.05 0.70
Procedure: Combine phase A under mixing, then homogenize. Switch back to mixing and heat to 70-75°C. Prepare phase B, separately, and heat to 70-75°C. Add phase B to phase A, then homogenize. At < 50°C, add phase C to phase AB, then homogenize. Cool down to room temperature with gentle mixing. * This composition is covered by US Patent # 7,754,775 & European Patent # 1756077.
Suppliers: 1. MMP, Inc. 2. Immudyne
0.1
0.2 0.2
MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY
ANTI-GRAY HAIR SERUM WITH MELANOGRAY™ PHASE INGREDIENTS
INCI NAME A Solvent Hydrolite-5 green Aqua/Water Pentylene Glycol
Refined Glycerin 99.5 % Glycerin Geogard UltraTM
A2 Nativacare™ 5600 B Amisoft® HS-11PF
(Ingredion)
Jojoba Oil Bio Cetiol® Ultimate Cetiol® LC
Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate Zea Mays (Corn) Starch
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Undecane (and) Tridecane Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
% W/W
add 100
5.0 5.0 1.5
3.0 0.3
2.0 4.0 2.0
PERSONAL CARE June 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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