48 HAIR CARE DURING APPLICATION Spreadability Absence of Pilling Richness
Absence of Whiteness (Soaping Effect)
Softness Absence of Stickiness Absence of Oiliness Softness Absence of Oiliness
Absence of Stickiness
Bio-emollient■ D5■
Figure 6: Sensory performance on skin for the material applied in a O/W emulsion. 6 expert panelists. Bio-emollient vs. D5
DURING APPLICATION Spreadability Richness
Absence of Whiteness
Absence of Pilling AFTERFEEL ON THE SKIN Absorption
Absence of Whiteness
Matte Effect
Absence of Whiteness
AFTERFEEL ON THE SKIN Absorption
Sensory performance on makeup To evaluate the sensory performance of the ingredient in makeup formulations, several parameters were reviewed by an expert panel in various formulations. First, a W/O emulsion containing 20%
bio-emollient was evaluated against the same formula with D5 at 20%. The results obtained show that the bio-emollient provided an overall better sensory experience than D5 in the same formulation (Figure 7), demonstrating better performance in several parameters (spreadability, absence of whiteness, and softness) during application and improved absorption in the afterfeel phase. In addition, a W/O foundation formulation
containing 15% bio-emollient was tested against a formula with D5. For this application, the results showed that both materials had the same performance in a W/O foundation with the same physicochemical properties (Figure 8).
Absence of Stickiness Absence of Oiliness Softness Softness Absence of Oiliness
Absence of Stickiness
Bio-emollient■ D5■
Figure 7: Sensory performance on the skin for a W/O emulsion with 20% bio-emollient/D5. Evaluation by six expert panelists
DURING APPLICATION Spreadability Absence of Pilling Richness Softness Softness Absence of Oiliness
Absence of Stickiness
Absence of Oiliness Matte Effect
Absence of Stickiness
Bio-emollient■ D5■
Figure 8: Sensory performance on the skin for a W/O foundation with 15% bio-emollient/D5. Evaluation by seven expert panelists
Isododecane Bio-emollient D5 AFTERFEEL ON THE SKIN Absorbancy
Absence of Whiteness
Matte Effect
Fluidity of texture over time The bio-emollient was also tested against isododecane and D5 to evaluate its ability to maintain fluidity over time in makeup applications. After four weeks at 50˚C, the samples of a W/O foundation with SPF containing the bio-emollient and D5 maintained their fluidity at 50°C (Figure 9). In contrast, the sample with isododecane dried out, most likely due to the higher evaporation rate of isododecane compared to the other two materials. In addition, an assessment of whether
the bio-emollient and isododecane affected the flash point on foundation applications was conducted. A flash point of over 95˚C was obtained using the bio-emollient, while the flash point for the foundation with isododecane was 60˚C. This suggests that the bio-emollient (65˚C)
can provide a safer end product in W/O foundations than isododecane (48˚C), owing to its higher flash point as a pure emollient.
Pigment dispersion - ZnO, TiO2 , Red Iron Oxide,
and Red 7 CA Lake The pigment dispersion ability of the bio- emollient was tested against D5 and Natural Benchmark 2. The bio-emollient generally provided good dispersion of coated pigments (ZnO, TiO2
, Red Iron Oxide, and Red 7 CA
Lake). The bio-emollient provides good dispersion of ZnO coated pigments (see Figure 10). The bio-emollient provides good dispersion natural coated pigments and excellent synthetic coated pigments
of TiO2 dispersion of TiO2
(Figure 11). The bio-emollient by itself does not provide good dispersion of uncoated pigments like ZnO and TiO2
. The addition of a pigment dispersant (INCI:
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate) at 3% in combination with bio-emollient can help obtain better dispersion of these pigments (Figures 10 and 11). For Red Iron Oxide, the bio-emollient was
Figure 9: Samples of W/O foundation with SPF containing 15% isododecane/bio-emollient/D5, kept for four weeks at 50°C
PERSONAL CARE June 2023
able to achieve very good dispersions of both natural and synthetic coated pigment (Figure
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80
