HAIR CARE
were kept in the humidity chamber for an hour and then treated with a flat iron at 230˚C. Each tress was treated by passing the
flat iron 20 times at the rate of 2secs/pass. The tresses were put back into the humidity chamber and the treatment was repeated the next day, for a total of five days. The total number of flat iron passes at the
end of 5 days was 100. The MDSC test was conducted with TA instruments model Q2000. Hair treated with bio-emollient showed the lowest damage compared to D5, Natural Benchmark 1, and no treatment (Figure 3) .
Hair colour – softness We also wanted to see whether the emollient could bring softness to hair colour formulations. For this, we conducted a test on level 4, type 1, virgin Caucasian hair, coloured with Permanent Hair Colour Copper Red CO-0034 containing 1% bio-emollient, D5, or Benchmark 1. Each tress was treated with a colour mixture
prepared by mixing 1 part of colour with 1 part of 20V developer and coloured for 30 minutes. The tresses were washed with a 15% SLES-2 solution and dried in a humidity chamber overnight. Three tresses were used per treatment. Hair
softness was assessed using Bruker technology to measure how friction on the surface of the hair was reduced. Results show that tresses treated with
Permanent Hair Colour CO-0034 containing bio-emollient were statistically significantly softer and smoother than D5 and no treatment.
Scalp care (in vivo) Two groups of 20 female volunteers (±10%) with straight and curly hair, aged between 18-62, applied an oil serum containing 60% bio- emollient or D5 behind the ear, doing so once a day for ten days. The bio-emollient showed an improvement
in the scalp’s condition. It helped control skin irritation while maintaining the right pH, provided moisturization, improved the barrier function, and helped in reducing skin desquamation in just ten days.
Skin care, sun care & makeup Sensory performance on skin Bio-emollient offers a very similar sensory
Softness (Afterfeel)
5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
Softness Fully dried at RT After 24 hours at 90% RH / 35°C
Figure 2: Volume & frizz control of hair oil. Tested on damaged European curly hair type 3a. Hair oil containing 60% bio-emollient/D5/ Natural Benchmark 1
16.00 14.00 12.00 10.00 8.00 6.00 4.00 2.00 0.00
Control
Hair Oil with D5
Volume & Frizz Control of Hair Oil
with Natural Benchmark 1
Hair Oil
Hair Oil with Bio-emollient
Control
Hair Oil with D5
with Natural Benchmark 1
Hair Oil
Hair Oil with Bio-emollient
47
3.27% **** 38.45% 52.75% **** **** 52.68%
Control Virgin
Heat Treated without Emollient
Heat Treated with Bio-emollient
Heat Treated with Natural Benchmark 1
Heat Treated with D5
Figure 3: Enthalpy of Denaturation - Protection of Intermediate Filaments on level 6, type 1, virgin Caucasian hair. 0.2g bio-emollient/Natural Benchmark 1/D5. Statistical significance: ****p<0.0001 Virgin vs. Natural Benchmark 1, ****p<0.0001 Virgin vs. D5, **** p<0.0001 Virgin vs. Heat treated without emollient **** p<0.0001
experience to that of D5 (Figure 4) and is equivalent to other D5 replacements in the market, Cyclopentasiloxane D5, and Natural Benchmark 2 (Figure 5), making it an excellent alternative in skin care and makeup applications. Moreover, the bio-emollient has the best
performance in terms of the ‘absence of oiliness’ parameter.
D5■ Bio-emollient■ Spreadability Softness (Afterfeel) Also, a sensory test with 6 panelists was
performed with an O/W emulsion containing 5% bio-emollient and this was compared to the same formula with 5% Cyclopentasiloxane (Figure 6). The results showed that the bio- emollient performed as well as D5 in O/W emulsion, being an excellent alternative thereto.
5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
Softness
Benchmark 2■ Bio-emollient■
Spreadability
Absence of Stickiness
Absence Draginess
Absence of Stickiness
Absence Draginess
Absence Oiliness
Figure 4: Sensory performance on skin for neat material. Six expert panelists. Bio-emollient vs. D5
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Absence Oiliness
Figure 5: Sensory performance on skin for neat material. Six expert panelists. Bio-emollient vs. Natural Benchmark 2
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
Delta H (J/g)
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