42 HAIR CARE
■ Improper washing. Many people are surprised to learn that some commonly accepted ways of cleaning their hair may in fact be damaging in the long run. Washing hair in very hot water, for example, is stressful for both the hair and scalp, as the high temperatures hamper the production of natural oils and dry out the hair. Washing and shampooing one’s hair every day is another popular, but unnecessary practice that interferes with the hair’s natural balance. ■ Friction from brushing and towel-drying. Using a brush with nylon bristles on the hair or towel-drying it roughly after showering can consequently ruffle the cuticle, which in turn causes frizz.
Coconut-based cationic surfactants: a way to counter unmanageable frizz Fortunately, it is not as hard as many customers think it is to counteract frizzy, unmanageable hair. The key lies in keeping the hair moisturized enough to combat dryness, which again is the primary culprit of hair frizziness. The right hair products, formulated with the right ingredients, can make a huge difference in the overall manageability of frizzy hair. This is where cationic surfactants come in.
What are surfactants? To understand what cationic surfactants are and how they work, one must know what surfactants are and how they function. Simply put, surfactants are chemical compounds that lower the surface tension between a liquid and a solid, a gas and a liquid, or two liquids. They are composed of a hydrophilic or water-loving head and a hydrophobic or water-repelling tail. The head is attracted to water and the tail is attracted to oils. There are four kinds of surfactants, namely
(1) cationic surfactants, (2) anionic surfactants, (3) non-ionic surfactants, and (4) amphoteric surfactants. They are used in a variety of cleaning agents as well as cosmetic and personal care products.
What makes cationic surfactants different from other surfactants? The differences between the types of surfactants are centered on their molecular charges. Non-ionic surfactants do not have any charges. As such, they are low-foaming and are also great emulsifiers. Amphoteric surfactants, on the other hand,
have dual charges that adapt to the pH of the substance to which they are added. They will develop a negative charge in alkaline solutions and a positive charge in acidic solutions. Anionic surfactants have a negative charge
on the tail, which helps them create a lot of foam or suds. This is why they are often used in detergents and shampoos as a primary cleansing agent. Last but not least, cationic surfactants have a positive charge on the tail. That makes them ideal for anti-static products, like fabric softeners and hair conditioners.
How do cationic surfactants work in hair care products?
When someone uses shampoo, the negative PERSONAL CARE June 2023 Before Shampoo After Shampoo (A) ANIONIC SURFACTANT
Micelles
After Shampoo
Figure 1: The effect of anionic and cationic surfactants on the hair cuticle (B) CATIONIC SURFACTANT
After Conditioner
Short in length
Negative Charge
end of an anionic surfactant picks up the oils and product residue. Then, once mixed with water, the anionic surfactant lifts these oils and residue from the strands. This action results in the fluffiness one notices in their hair after shampooing. Consequently, when shampoo is duly
followed up with a conditioner, the positive charge of the cationic surfactant counteracts the negative charge of the anionic surfactant. This reaction smooths the hair back down. In addition, the natural negative charge
of human hair attracts the positive charge of cationic surfactants in hair conditioners. This results in the formation of a silky ‘coat’ that counteracts frizziness and provides extra shine. One of the most popular examples of
cationic surfactants is benzalkonium chloride, which is widely used as a component in fabric conditioners. Another is stearalkonium chloride, derived from a fatty acid from animals called stearic acid. It is used in hair conditioners, as well as
setting lotions and similar smoothing products. And in the Philippines, a coconut-based cationic surfactant has proven effective at treating hair frizz the natural and sustainable way.
An effective, coconut-powered cationic surfactant A coconut-based cationic surfactant, one of the Philippines’ most important crops. Based on Cocamidopropyl dimethylamine neutralized with lactic acid, it is a cold-processable conditioning active whose applications include conditioners, conditioning shampoos, and hair masks among others. It is compatible with almost all types of other surfactants, and it
Long in length
Positive Charge
Figure 2: The difference in chain length between an anionic surfactant and a cationic surfactant
is characterized by its efficient, buildup-free conditioning properties.
Mechanism of action As shown in Figure 1, the anionic surfactants in shampoo may cause the hair cuticles to slightly open. This is caused by the surplus of negative charges, generating static electricity and thus leading to frizz and friction. The cationic surfactant releases a positive
charge that neutralizes the negative charge on the hair cuticle, thus forming a neutral, hydrophobic, cationic-anionic complex. This, in turn, reduces the static electricity and relaxes the hair cuticle, making it smooth and less frizzy. As shown in Figure 2, the anionic surfactants in shampoo are shorter in length, with a negative polar head. The polar extremity is capable of giving this portion of the molecule hydrophilic traits that allow it to dissolve in water and wash away the dirt. The cationic surfactant is longer in length, with a positive polar head. Its weight allows it to cling to the hair, relax the flayed cuticles, and ultimately increase its hydrophobicity. On the left side Figure 3, the cuticle is raised, making it hard to comb and producing more split ends due to the increased friction. On the right side, the cuticles are closed as a result of using the cationic surfactant, improving the hydrophobicity of hair, reducing friction, and improving combability.
Evaluating coconut-based cationic surfactant’s performance properties APM Pro 200 (Microscopic Hair Analysis) was used to take pictures for both samples to arrive at a closer appearance of hair cuticles. The
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