64 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
Back to basics: the resurgence of retinol
Michael Lull, Hannah Cwienkala - BASF
The skincare market is massive and growing rapidly, with strong expected growth over the next several years after a rare dip at the onset of the pandemic. Consumers are savvier than ever and are focused on effective ingredients that they can trust. Perhaps no ingredient has a better blend of
efficacy and proven history than retinol. First discovered during World War I,1
and in common
usage for more than 50 years, retinol is the gold standard of age-defying skincare. After ‘hiding in plain sight’ for decades,
retinol is experiencing a renaissance and a surge in demand - with good reason. This article will explain why consumer demand for retinol continues to surge, what makes retinol such a powerful ingredient, and how to choose the right retinol for your formula.
Retinol fits the bill for consumer demand Today’s consumers are reading labels - and not just at the grocery store. Consumers want to know what they are using in their homes and especially putting on their skin. With seemingly unlimited research, consumer watch groups, blogs, and review sites at their fingertips, it is easier than ever for consumers to make an informed decision. Unlike nascent, unproven ingredients and/
or those with convoluted labels, retinol is as straightforward as it gets. A derivative of Vitamin A, retinol is instantly recognizable. More than half of personal care consumers report that they would be willing to switch to another personal care product if they better understood the ingredient in that product.2 One surefire way to ensure that consumers
will understand the ingredient: start with vitamins. Vitamin- and mineral-derived products are experiencing a serious uptick in demand. This demand is attributable to broad awareness and trust levels associated with vitamins and minerals, as well as their perceived simplicity and functionality.3 Science-backed. Back to basics. Tried and
true. These are the label callouts toward which consumers are gravitating. Consumers are voting with their dollars, and they are electing products with trust and transparency that do not compromise on efficacy. After years of global tumult brought on by the pandemic, consumers have ‘uncertainty fatigue’ and are opting for products like retinol, where they know exactly what they are getting.
PERSONAL CARE June 2023
The science behind an age-defying powerhouse Let us get technical for a moment: Retinol is the chemical name for Vitamin A. Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin and refers to a category of nutrients that includes both retinoids (naturally found in animal-based foods like liver, eggs, and dairy) and carotenoids (naturally found in plants).
on the World Health Organization’s List of Essential Medicines.4
Vitamin A is considered essential and is Vitamin A deficiency is a
serious problem, affecting around one-third of children under age five around the world and is the leading cause of preventable childhood blindness.5
Combating Vitamin A deficiency
involves oral or intravenous supplementation of Vitamin A. We are here to talk about the topical
cosmetic applications, and that means derivatives of Vitamin A that fall under an umbrella term called retinoids. “There is not a single class of ingredient that can rival the track record that retinoids have for proven scientific results,” says Dr. Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas, a New York City-based dermatologist. To be effective, the body must convert
a topical solution first into retinal, and then into retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is the active ingredient that generates the age-defying results consumers want.
Not all retinols are created equally At the molecular level, retinol consists of a long hydrocarbon chain with a cyclic structure at one end called a beta-ionone ring. This ring is responsible for many of the biological activities of retinol, which is why stability matters so much. Retinoids in their purest form are typically
prescription-strength and contain a high percentage of retinoic acid. Retinol is part of the retinoid family, and is scientifically proven, as Dr. Armenakas stated above. Retinol is a gentler version that contains a lower percentage of retinoic acid and is available without a prescription for cosmetic applications. Even within the highly approachable retinol
category, which we are talking about here, concentrations vary widely by product. Some have very low levels of active ingredient, while others have very high levels. Higher levels do not necessarily mean better; different products have different applications, and different consumers have different needs. One factor that does determine the quality
of a retinol product is the stability of the molecules. Stabilization is critical for product functionality. Different retinol products have different molecule stabilization systems, which leads to very different outcomes.
Benefits of retinol For most consumers, the primary benefit of
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80
