56 HAIR CARE 5 APPLICATIONS
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
EssentiaTein Protect ■ Placebo ■ 15.12
**** ****
EssentiaTein Protect
1.43
****p<0.0001 EssentiaTein Protect vs Initial after 5 applications ****p<0.0001 EssentiaTein Protect vs placebo after 5 applications
Figure 8. Percentage difference in hair shine after five applications of the hydrolyzed protein active and placebo treatments compared to untreated
3. Hair shine The effect of the hydrolyzed protein technologies to increase shine was measured on UV damaged Caucasian brown hair through the usage of image analysis. Hair swatches were initially clarified using a 10% SLES solution and allowed to air dry overnight in a standardized environment at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2°C for 24 hours before placed in the Q-Sun UVA 320- 400 nm irradiation chamber for 96 hours. Hair shine readings were then calculated
using Bossa Nova Samba Hair System, a device utilized to analyze hair lustre through a polarization-imaging sensor, before initial treatment, after one, and five applications in a controlled environment.8,9
Hair shine was
measured as intensity of light reflected and reported as specular reflection, a parameter of lustre/gloss intensity.
Results Imagery analysis results reveal that the hydrolyzed proteins significantly increased shine upon immediate use, but also continued to deliver shine over time. After only one application of 1% active in a shampoo and conditioner treatment, shine is improved by 9.18% (p<0.001) compared to untreated, while placebo shampoo and conditioner only improved by -0.61% (p<0.001) compared to untreated (Figure 6). For statistical evaluation, analysis of
variance (ANOVA) test was used to measure the variation of the results and comparing the data between all groups. Visible improvement in shine can be seen in Figure 7. Additionally, after five applications of
1% active in a shampoo and conditioner treatment, shine is improved by 15.12% (p<0.0001) compared to untreated, while placebo shampoo and conditioner only improved by 1.43% (p<0.0001) compared to untreated (Figure 8). For statistical evaluation, ANOVA test was
used to measure the variation of the results and comparing the data between all groups. Significant visible improvement in shine can be seen in Figure 9.
PERSONAL CARE June 2023 Placebo Figure 9: Hair shine images after five applications of the hydrolyzed protein active and placebo treatment
4. Antioxidant capacity Oxygen radical antioxidant capacity (ORAC) activity assays are a classic tool to measure the antioxidant capacity of biomolecules from a variety of samples. The test of ORAC activity is based on oxidation of a fluorescent probe through peroxyl radicals by means of a transfer of hydrogen atoms. Specifically, peroxyl radicals are produced
by a free radical starter that degrades the fluorescent probe over time. The antioxidants in the sample under the test block the activity of oxidation of peroxyl radicals. However, this blocking is not permanent and the residue of peroxyl radicals starts to inhibit the probe’s fluorescence.10,11 The reaction was carried out in 75 mM sodium phosphate buffer (pH 7.4) containing 3 nm of fluorescein (FL) and hydrolyzed proteins. The mixture was placed in the wells of the microplate and preincubated for 30 minutes at 37°C before rapidly adding the 19 mM 2.2’-azobis(2-amidino-propane) dihydrochloride (AAPH) solution. The microplate was immediately placed in the
reader and the fluorescence was read through the clear bottom, with an excitation wavelength of 485/20 nm and emission filter of 528/20 nm. A baseline control with FL and AAPH used sodium phosphate buffer instead of the antioxidant. Peroxyl radicals decrease the fluorescence intensity of fluorescein, and the addition of the oxidant will inhibit the loss of fluorescence. This inhibition is proportional to antioxidant activity.
Results Through the ORAC assay study results, the hydrolyzed protein mechanisms demonstrate powerful antioxidant capacity. It showed statistically significant reduction of peroxyl radical by 6,734; 5,712; 4,426; 1,593; and 192 A.U at concentrations of 20.000, 4.000, 0.800, 0.160, and 0.032 mg/mL, respectively, compared to baseline control of 33 A.U (Figure 10).
Conclusion EssentiaTein Protect hydrolyzed protein provides multiple benefits on hair fibres. Our study results demonstrate that it shields against pollutants, such as calcium and aluminum ions, provides shine and moisturization to hair damaged by UV radiation, and has high antioxidant capacity. Overall, the hydrolyzed rice protein, Adansonia digitata seed extract, and Amaranthus caudatus seed extract, allow for the delivery multifunctional benefits for enhanced, healthier hair.
Acknowledgements Anti-pollution, diffraction scanning colorimeter, and ORAC value studies were conducted in collaboration with KosmoScience Brazil.
References 1. Robbins CR, Reich C, Patel A. Adsorption to keratin surfaces: A continuum between a charge-driven and a hydrophobically driven process. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. p. 45-84, 1994
2. Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. Fourth Edition. Springer, New York. 2012
3. Ajinomoto. Cosmetic Amino Acids. Ajinomoto North America. 2013. https://
www.ajichem.com/en/products/amino-
acids.aspx
4. Belletti KMS, Feferman IH, Mendes TRO, Piacescki AD, Monteiro VF, Carreno NLV, Valentini A, Leite ER, Longo E. Evaluation of hair fiber hydration by differential scanning calorimetry, gas chromatography, and sensory analysis. Journal of Cosmetic Science. v. 54 (6), p. 527-535, 2003
5. Cao J. Melting study of the a-form crystallites in human hair keratin by DSC. Termodinamic Acta. p. 335, 1999
6. Wortmann FJ, Springob C, Sendelbach G.
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PC
Compared to Untreated
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