TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
retinol is its ability to produce desired age- defying cosmetic effects. Several factors contribute to the ageing process, including environmental exposure (e.g. UV radiation), stress, hydration, diet, hormonal changes, genetics, and metabolic processes including oxidation and glycation. Together, these factors impact skin structure, appearance, and function. From the perspective of the consumer, the
skin ageing process is typically most evident in the gradual loss of elasticity and firmness, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as age spots and uneven texture. Retinol can help combat these signs of ageing in several ways:
Supporting collagen production Collagen is a protein that gives the skin the elasticity and firmness that is typically associated with youth. As we age, the production of collagen in the skin slows down. That is what leads to the emergence of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol can help support the production
of collagen. Not only can this slow down the emergence of more fine lines and wrinkles, but it can actually reverse the appearance of already-existing fine lines and wrinkles - a unique claim in age-defying skincare ingredients.6
Reducing hyperpigmentation Hyperpigmentation is a common sign of ageing. It is caused by hormones, sun exposure, inflammation, skin injuries, and/or simply ageing. Hyperpigmentation can show up in the form of dark spots, age spots, or uneven skin tone. Retinol can even out skin tone and not
only help prevent the appearance of new hyperpigmentation, but can actually reverse the appearance of existing hyperpigmentation.7
Improving skin texture Retinol can also help improve the texture of the skin by supporting cell turnover. As we age, the rate at which our skin cells ‘turn over’, or renew themselves, slows down. This can lead to an
uneven and/or less vibrant complexion. In other words, it is the opposite of a ‘youthful glow’. Retinol can help support the process of skin
cell turnover. That can result in smoother skin that appears more radiant. It also acts as an exfoliating agent and unclogs/tightens pores, which further contributes to the reclaiming of that youthful glow. Though not technically an age-related benefit, the support of cell turnover also has shown to have an effect on the appearance of blemishes. These are not anecdotal claims. There is
scientifically documented efficacy of retinol/ retinoids for its age-defying qualities, the comforting of UV-damaged and dry skin and a perceived improvement of the skin barrier. A significant volume of published scientific studies - spanning many years - point to the benefits of topically applied retinol for personal care. All of this is why The Telegraph called retinol “the miracle skincare ingredient” in 2022.8
How retinol is used in skincare routines Looking to give retinol a try? It is recommended visiting a dermatologist for best guidance, but from a general perspective, retinol be applied topically in a thin layer to the face, avoiding
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the eyes, mouth, and nose. Specific application instructions vary by finished product. Retinol products are typically applied to
clean skin and followed with moisturizer. It is often recommended that retinol products be applied at night, because one side effect of retinol usage is increased photosensitivity (susceptibility to sun damage). Even if retinol is only used at night, it is
critical that anyone on a retinol regimen use a high-quality, broad-spectrum SPF product daily because of the increased photosensitivity. Solar UV radiation is the number one non-genetically associated contributor to skin ageing, so do not counteract the positive effects of an age-defying skincare routine by exposing skin to sun damage! Do not forget to start slow. In general,
dermatologists recommend that people new to retinol products start gradually, applying the product only once per week as the skin adapts. This is especially important for those with sensitive skin. It is common for retinol to generate skin irritation, especially at first. This irritation may range from barely noticeable to quite severe, with redness, dryness, sensitivity, and skin flaking as common signs. The irritation typically subsides as the skin adapts. Higher concentrations of retinol are associated with more severe irritation. If skin irritation proves to be untenable,
consumers may need to take a long break from their retinol product, switch products to a lower concentration, or even discontinue use. For most consumers, irritation is tolerable - especially with products that have lower concentrations of retinol - and the benefits outweigh the (typically temporary) discomfort. Rotational usage of retinol has gained
traction in recent years after groundbreaking research indicated that a rotational regimen (as opposed to following the same application pattern without a break) may make retinol even more effective by mitigating the plateau effect that can occur after skin fully adapts over time.9
How long does retinol take to be effective? Results vary both by person and by product. Levels of retinol in non-prescription, topical cosmetic applications can range from 0.01% to 2%. Within these ranges, potential benefits range
from gradual improvement in multiple signs of ageing and overall skin health over time, to significant, rapid improvement that can take effect within a few weeks. At the very highest levels, some final formulations make claims of even faster results.
What to look for when choosing a retinol ingredient When choosing a retinol ingredient for a final product formulation, there are several factors to consider. These include:
Stability Retinol can be unstable and susceptible to degradation by exposure to light, heat, acids/heavy metals, and oxygen. For a high- quality final product that meets consumer expectations, it is essential to choose a retinol ingredient that has demonstrated stability and is likely to have a long shelf life.
www.personalcaremagazine.com June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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