SKIN CARE
Biodegradable RM with synthetic performance
Thomas Lukowicz, Jasmine Shah - Clariant
Rheology modifiers are functional skincare ingredients that work to thicken formulations. They are primarily used to impart a thicker texture and viscosity to topical formats, such as creams, serums, and gels. Rheology modifiers have a resultant impact
on the experience of using a product, influencing the way it feels on skin during and after use, as well as its look and pick-up texture. Beyond a formulation’s initial texture, rheology modifiers will determine the maintenance of texture, viscosity, and flow across temperature and pH ranges. They will also work to stabilize oils and other particles included in a formulation, acting as structuring agents that help various components to combine with each other. Nowadays, skincare is increasingly
associated with wellness and practiced as a means by which to relax. In addition, consumers are ever-more educated on its benefits, layering different products to achieve and optimize the results of their routines. Therefore, the emphasis placed on rheology modifiers continues to grow as cosmetic brands need to ensure they can provide an enjoyable sensory experience. In addition to performance, rheology
modifiers have an environmental impact, contributing to a formulation’s overall carbon footprint as well as to its biodegradability. As skincare formulations end their lifecycles in water, the biodegradability of rheology modifiers is an important factor in reducing build-up in the environment.
Rheology modifier options Formulators currently have a choice of three main types of rheology modifiers: synthetic polymers (made by chemical synthesis, e.g. carbomers); biopolymers (naturally occurring, e.g. xanthan gum); and modified biopolymers (chemically altered biopolymers, e.g. cellulose gum).
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Synthetic polymers tend to offer strong
thickening performance, imparting luxurious texture, but the category lacks the availability of biodegradable options. Conversely, biopolymers tend not to thicken formulations well or maintain texture, but include an array of natural and biodegradable options. To date, modified biopolymers have not gained significant traction due to their combination of poor thickening performance alongside a lack of biodegradable options. Recent focus on the environment has
resulted in the increasing use of biopolymers, which account for almost 40% of all rheology modifier use.1
Despite this, biopolymers
can bring with them some performance drawbacks. Their downsides in thickening
and texture-maintenance present a challenge for formulators looking to create luxurious, pleasant-feeling formulations, as they often result in stringy textures, with unpleasant pick- up and feel, while also being prone to causing pilling. Clariant’s objective has been to use its
expertise in rheology modifiers and innovate to create ingredients that thicken formulations according to consumer needs without compromising on biodegradability. Aristoflex Eco T (INCI: Caesalpinia
Spinosa Gum (tara gum)/Ammonium AMPS crosspolymer), which gained recognition at in-cosmetics Global 2023, where it was awarded the silver prize in the functional ingredients category, is the first in a new class of readily biodegradable modified biopolymers with thickening abilities comparable to a synthetic polymer. Hereafter known as the tara gum rheology modifier, it achieves good thickening performance and other benefits, as demonstrated in the following tests.
Figure 1: Use of rheology modifiers by type in 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
High viscosities even at low concentrations Achieving the right viscosity is a crucial part of cosmetic skincare. Viscosity influences the product texture and properties, and whether or not consumers perceive a light lotion or a thick cream. Furthermore, viscosity contributes
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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