Volume 24 Issue 6
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CONTENTS
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Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Lipoid Kosmetik News
76 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
16 Interview: Preserving the future Earlier this year, Sharon Laboratories became Sharon Personal Care after expanding its technology base and formulation capabilities with the acquisition of RES Pharma and the cosmetic ingredient and R&D units of B&C. CEO Naama Eylon talks about the Israeli firm’s corporate strategy with editor Tim Probert
21 Suppliers’ Day 2023: NYSCC in full effect
Editor Tim Probert takes a look back at this year’s NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, which attracted 10,362 registrants from 73 countries and 546 exhibiting companies covering around 100,000 net square feet of expo space. With travel restrictions fully lifted and a welcome return of many more Asian visitors than last year, the 2023 edition was busy, buzzy and bustling
25 Next-gen moisturizer targeting the holobiont
French speciality chemicals maker Greentech has developed a COSMOS-certified organic upcycled active ingredient obtained from a double extraction of organic wild yellow gentian roots and enhanced by fermentation with S. faeni. It has been found to boost HA synthesis and protection against free radicals’ degradation, both in the epidermis and the dermis
31 Making sense of the skin–brain connection
CLR discusses the role of CB2 (Cannabinoid Receptor Type 2) in skin health and how it is feasible to have a true ‘neurocosmetic’ effect when the possibility exists for a cosmetic active ingredient to act as an agonist to CB2 on the outermost skin cells, the keratinocytes. The German firm has developed a cherimoya-based active to achieve this
35 Biodegradable RM with synthetic performance
Clariant has used its expertise in rheology modifiers and innovate to create ingredients that thicken formulations according to consumer needs without compromising on
biodegradability.The Swiss firm’s Aristoflex Eco T is a new class of readily biodegradable modified biopolymer with thickening abilities comparable to a synthetic polymer
41 How cationic surfactants neutralize hair frizz
While many hair care consumers may find frizzy hair annoying, it is far from a permanent or unsolvable hair problem. Natura Aeropack explains how products formulated with coconut-powered active ingredients, paired with healthy hair care practices, can prevent unwanted frizz and help human hair stay in excellent condition for the long term
46 Bio-emollient as a high-performing D5 alternative
Lubrizol has developed a bio-emollient as a sustainable solution to those consumers who are looking to replace volatile silicone- based products but do not want to lose performance. It offers the same benefits as volatile silicones such as Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), but without non-bidegradable and bioaccumulative drawbacks
53 Hydrolyzed proteins for anti-pollution hair care
TRI-K has developed novel technologies, which consist of hydrolyzed rice protein, Adansonia digitata seed extract and Amaranthus caudatus seed extract, which are specifically designed to overcome pollution in hair and to increase shine and moisturization of hair fibres damaged from UV radiation
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June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
59 Development of active ingredients in the digital era
Greenpharma believes we are close to personalized cosmetics using data about which ingredients can produce which metabolites to be applied to which skin conditions to have desired appearances. The company has developed tools to perform phytochemical profiling. The goal is to offer a global insight on molecules that can be contained in an extract
64 Back to basics: the resurgence of retinol
After ‘hiding in plain sight’ for decades, retinol is experiencing a renaissance and a surge in demand - with good reason. BASF explains why consumer demand for retinol continues to surge, what makes retinol such a powerful ingredient, and how to choose the right retinol for your formulation
68 Neurocosmetic beauty: bitter receptor activation
By activating the skin’s bitter taste receptors and encouraging calcium influx, personal care products can now alleviate the previous skepticism around neurocosmetics. This development is not merely fascinating for contemplation in a research lab, but now a readily applicable sensory experience for the skin which combines science, innovation, and efficiency into one solution, as Active Concepts explains
72 Rapid microbial methods for a financial boost
Personal care companies that use traditional quality control microbiological methods, also known as compendial or pour plate methods, spend more time testing their products than it takes to make them. It does not need to be that way, as Charles River Laboratories explains
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