SKIN CARE
Next-gen moisturizer targeting the holobiont
Lauriane Imbert-Roux, Lisa Taulemesse, Romain Francolon and Jean-Yves Berthon – Greentech
For more than ten years, interest for the microbiota has increased and been studied independently from the organism it lives with. Today, the study of the interactions between this host and its microbiota is leading to a new approach: the Holobiont. From the Greek holos (all) and bios (life), the term holobiont refers to a natural living entity consisting of a higher organism, i.e. a multicellular organism, called a host, such as you, me, an animal or a plant; and its microbiota, i.e. the cohort of microorganisms that is closely associated with. Greentech’s scientific discoveries are now
unveiling a new generation of active ingredients. A new systemic approach treating the skin as a whole and incorporating for the first time a metaproteomic study that focuses on the strong protein interactions between skin host and its microbiota within dry and dehydrated skin. A first approach in cosmetics. Lack of skin’s moisture is one of the main
consumers’ concerns and a lot of products on the market address this condition. Indeed, hydration loss is a recurrent issue that does not only affect complexion in the short term, but also in the long term since it accelerates signs of aging. Thus, keeping our skin sufficiently hydrated daily is a subject of great importance. However, what are the mechanisms behind it? First, it is important to know that two types of
issues can affect skin moisture: dehydrated (lack of water) and dry skin (lack of lipids). Dehydrated skin is a temporary state that directly originates in water loss. This condition can affect all skin types and leaves a dull complexion and lack of elasticity, favoring the apparition of fine lines also called ‘dehydration wrinkles’. On the contrary, dry skin is a skin type that
is specific to an individual. It is due to sebum underproduction, giving the aspect of cracked skin and feelings of irritation and itchiness. It is important to note that a dry skin can also be dehydrated, and in both cases there is a strong need for water binding ingredients. For this reason, we chose to target
hyaluronic acid (HA) to counteract both dry and dehydrated skins. Indeed, it is the water- binding molecule by excellence: HA is capable of retaining 1,000 times its molecular weight in water. That is why boosting its synthesis, both in the dermis and in the epidermis, is one of the key to restore skin hydration. Although HA is a compound naturally
presents within our skin, numerous factors can participate to its degradation, such as
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free radicals. This way, the optimal solution for preserving HA is to fight oxidative stress. Another key strategy to counteract water loss is to reinforce the skin barrier function through actions on tights junctions, skin differentiation, lipid synthesis and microbiota. To counteract skin dehydration, Greentech,
inspired by nature has found microorganisms and plants able to resist to desiccated environments. Thanks to a research partnership with the Chemistry Institute of Clermont- Ferrand (ICF) working on aerobiota and its role in atmospheric chemistry, a rare bacteria was selected and isolated from the French aerobiome: Sphingomonas faeni (S. faeni). It is a cold-tolerant airborne bacteria able to survive in an unfavourable freezing and desiccated environment, with intense radiation compared to the majority of bacteria found in earth, unable to survive more than a few seconds in the air. It can resist to abiotic stresses by synthesizing lipids to reinforce its cell membrane and antioxidant enzymes such as glutathione S-transferase. The yellow gentian is a plant able to grow
spontaneously, and even better, in high altitude with a high resistance to cold-environment. A sustainable organic ethical and local (Auvergne
Rhône Alpes) sourcing has been identified by Greentech, which is also member of an association dedicated to gentian’s preservation. Resulting from the combining action of
these altitude-resistant plant and bacteria, Holobiosys®, hereafter GSfE (Gentian S. faeni extract), is a COSMOS-certified organic upcycled active ingredient, obtained from a double extraction of organic wild yellow gentian roots enhanced by fermentation with S. faeni. It is enriched in molecules of interest extracted both from fermentation (amino-acids and phospholipids known to promote skin water retention) and from gentian such as loganic acid (known for its antioxidant properties).
Systemic hyaluronic acid booster The assessment of GSfE effect on HA from epidermis to dermis appears essential in order to evaluate its ability to modulate skin hydration. More precisely, in vitro complementary studies were performed, to evaluate the effect of active treatment on HA synthesis and protection, and its signaling cascade after binding to CD44, a specific HA cell membrane receptor. Indeed, HA binding to CD44 promotes skin hydration afterwards as it increases tight junction
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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