46 HAIR CARE
Bio-emollient as a high- performing D5 alternative
Eulalia Peri, Alba Garcia, Andrea Villamizar Barahona, Juliana Gomiero, Paola Pérez, Carolina Ferrarezi Da Fonseca, Elena Cañadas, Wing Li, Narjis A Askar, Cristina Amezcua Fontrodona, Jean Xavier, Marine Vincendet, Raquel Delgado, K.T. Selvy - Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Due to safety and environmental concerns, volatile Cyclomethicone, like Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), is restricted in personal care applications. Consumers are looking for new alternatives that are more natural and biodegradable to replace silicone- based products while maintaining the same performance. SilSense™ Bio 5 emollient, hereafter known
as the bio-emollient, is a naturally derived, biodegradable, highly pure, and volatile emollient to be used as a silicone alternative to Cyclopentasiloxane D5 in leave-on applications, with a similar performance and sensory feel. It is a cross-category ingredient, with excellent performance in hair care and hair colour, makeup, skin care, and sun care applications. In addition, it may be considered microbiome friendly. From a chemical standpoint, the bio-
emollient is a sustainable bio-alkane, derived from a non-GMO, 100% vegetable oil, which is traceable to plantations. It is manufactured using an eco-friendly, solvent-free process without generating waste or by-products. Green energy sources are used throughout the manufacturing process, and the only two co-products generated - glycerin and methanol – are recuperated and reused. All this leads to a high-purity product manufactured sustainably.
Hair care Sensory performance of hair oil To determine whether bio-emollient could
6 5 4 3 2 1
0 Spreadability Stickiness Slipperiness
Figure 1: Sensory attributes on non-damaged European hair type 1b. Hair oil containing 60% bio- emollient/D5/ Natural Benchmark 1
PERSONAL CARE June 2023
match the sensory performance (spreadability, non-stickiness, and slipperiness) of D5, a panel test was performed using both non-damaged and damaged European brown hair type 1b (André Walker hair classification). On damaged hair, it showed parity in
spreadability and slightly better results in stickiness and slipperiness when compared with D5 and Natural Benchmark 1 (Figure 1). Similar results were obtained on non-damaged hair. In addition, its conditioning performance
D5 ■ Natural Benchmark 1■ Bio-emollient■
was evaluated in the wet and dry stages. Several parameters were assessed. No differences in feel and combing were observed between D5 and Natural Benchmark 1.
Volume & frizz control of hair oil The volume and frizz control performance of the bio-emollient in a hair oil was demonstrated using a multiethnic approach, as different types of hair were studied (from types 1b to 4a in the André Walker hair classification). The bio-emollient provided volume and frizz
control similar to D5 and was better than Natural Benchmark 1, being less greasy (Figure 2).
Protection against heat treatments In order to prove the protective effect of bio- emollient against heat treatments, a modulated differential scanning calorimetry Test (MDSC) was performed. By using this test, changes in alpha helical phase and matrix can be monitored. The test was conducted on level 6, type
1, virgin Caucasian hair and a large hair tape swatch was used. The tress was washed with a 15% solution of SLES-2 twice. The virgin control tress had no heat treatment and one tress was heat treated without any emollient. The remaining tresses were treated with 0.2g
of emollient (bio-emollient, Natural Benchmark 1 and D5) one time. The ingredient was evenly spread on the tress from root to tip. The tresses
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