22


NYSCC SUPPLIERS’ DAY 2023 POST-SHOW


US and Europe have around 60% share. China is becoming an ever stronger third


player in active ingredients, said Matic. “We are seeing very interesting dynamics in the Chinese market; there is a Chinese company in the top three suppliers of actives, botanicals and biotech categories. This was absolutely not the case ten years ago,” he said. China continues to be heavily


overrepresented in terms of sales biotech ingredients in relation to the global average, with increasingly large demand and fast-growing domestic production of synthetic peptides. This is largely due to a significant fall in the


price as a result of some peptide patents expiring in recent years. India was seen as a slower growing market


than China but having huge potential growth opportunities, particularly with botanical ingredients. “At this point, the market in India is geared towards less expensive, high-volume products but we can already see that botanicals are going to play a very important role – more important than we see for the global average.” Other speakers included Anna Balaguer,


global beauty trends manager at Provital. Balaguer echoed Matic’s comments on the rise of low-cost, high-tech peptides coming out of China, which, she said, is increasingly a leader and not a follower in the world of cosmetic ingredients. Another key theme of her global trends presentation was the rise of ‘sensational’ beauty products: warm, cold, intense skin feel and so on. Elsewhere, Bruno Malepa of Australian


contract manufacturerUA Manufacturing noted the explosive growth in interest in cosmetic ingredients originating from Australia. There has been an 150% increase in the number of products on the market mentioning Australia on the label, he said. Other key conference track sessions included


a fireside chat with Mohamed Kanji, chief open innovation and operational excellence officer for North America at L’Oréal, which was moderated by Lan Vu, founder & CEO of Beautystreams.


CEW Beauty Creators Awards ingredient shortlist During a fabulous party at Second Floor NYC on 6th Avenue, the shortlist of finalists for the CEW (Cosmetic Executive Women) Beauty Creators Awards ingredients & formulation category was revealed.


The eight finalists are as follows:


■ Activen: XE–716 miniprotein ■ BASF: Probiolift ■ Cambrium: NovaColl ■ Croda: Mel(o)stem ■ Givaudan Active Beauty: PrimalHyal Hydra [+] ■ Givaudan Active Beauty: Gravityl ■ P2 Science: CitroSperse ■ Vantage Specialty Ingredients: Concentrated Conditioner Drops The winner will be revealed at the CEW


Beauty Creators Awards in New York on 7 November. After the shortlist was revealed, party guests had the opportunity to sample the club- style facilities laid on by the NYSCC at Second Floor NYC, including a palmologist, masseuses, poker table, jazz band plus ample food and drink.


PERSONAL CARE June 2023


Fireside chat with Mohamed Kanji, L’Oréal chief open innovation and operational excellence officer


Show floor smorgasbord of new products On the show floor, the new Brazilian Pavilion saw 11 companies participate: 100% Amazonia, Anis, Apoena Biotech, Aqia, Assessa, Atina Ativos Naturais, Chemyunion, Maian, Nanoscoping, Nanovetores, and Plantus. According to Brazilian cosmetics association


ABIHPEC, some 712 business meetings were held during the show, which generated a total of $1.3m in international sales, with an expectation of another $4.8m for the next 12 months. Apoena Biotech introduced its services in the field of bioprospecting and screening of biotechnological active ingredients. New products on show at Suppliers’ Day


included Vantage’s Jeesperse NoLo range of self-emulsifying bases for hair care applications. The Jeesperse NoLo range includes two powder products, Jeesperse NoLo N1 and Jeesperse NoLo C2, that use no or low mixing energy in the emulsion process due to their self- emulsification properties. The company aims to save formulators time,


energy, and money by helping to employ cold- and low-energy processes that in turn simplify manufacturing procedures. Jeesperse NoLo powders contain all the chassis ingredients


LEADING SELLERS OF SPECIALITY ACTIVES IN 2022 SOURCE: KLINE


1


2 3


BASF DSM


Croda


4 Givaudan 5 6 7


Lubrizol Freda


Ashland


needed for the creation of successful hair conditioner formulations, it said. Elsewhere, IMCD debuted Sensational


Beauty, a collection of seven market-ready ASMR (autonomous sensory meridian response) prototypes. Visitors sampled the new collection at the IMCD Demo Bar, while an invitation-only crowd was immersed in an ASMR experience showcasing the full effect in a VIP room. BASF exhibited under a ‘Reimagine What


Matters’ theme and showcased Care 360˚C products such as its Verdessence portfolio, a wide range of biopolymers suitable for applications such as hair care, skin care, oral care and colour cosmetics. In addition to its extensive and efficacious


specialty actives portfolio, BASF exhibited innovative bioactive ingredients based on harnessing beneficial bacteria, Lactobacillus crispatus: Probiolift probiotic and Postbiolift postbiotic. Clariant went big on sustainability by


highlighting its VITA line of 100% bio-based surfactants and PEG products designed for natural formulations with a high Renewable Carbon Index. The ingredients are based on green carbon made from plants via bioethanol and other oleochemical sources, with fully segregated material flows of sugar cane or corn to the final ingredient to ensure the natural origin of the ethoxylates. Naolys launched HairRevive[MM+Zn], which


combines plant cell culture and a well-known mineral to slow down ageing of the hair and


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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