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COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK
LIPOID Liposome C Eco: innovative natural product
Encapsulation of cosmetic active ingredients in skin-friendly particles potentiates their skin interaction and results in a superior and long-lasting cosmetic effect. LIPOID Liposome C Eco is an innovative natural product containing ascorbyl glucoside (2-O-alpha- D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid), a derivative of Vitamin C. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, neutralizing and removing harmful free radical molecules and enhancing collagen formation. It inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, thereby reducing melanogenesis and counteracting skin hyperpigmentation.1 Ascorbyl glucoside is converted into ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) in the skin, providing a long- lasting cosmetic effect.2 LIPOID Liposome C Eco combines the
cosmetic benefits of ascorbyl glucoside with the excellent skin penetrating and rejuvenating properties of phospholipids and liposomes.3 The liposomes of LIPOID Liposome C Eco comprise unsaturated phospholipids, which condition the stratum corneum for optimal cosmetic effects.3
The structure of
phospholipid molecules and phospholipid vesicles (liposomes) are provided in Figure 1. Phospholipids are highly versatile materials
offering both technical and physiological benefits for cosmetic formulations. They number among the body’s own building blocks and are essential constituents of the human cell membrane. These compounds are therefore highly biocompatible and benign, and hence pre-destined for use in superior high-end skincare products. Owing to their amphiphilic nature and their ability to interact with human skin, phospholipids can serve as
active ingredients for skin protection and skin rejuvenation, as carrier systems for cosmetic active ingredients, and as skin-friendly emulsifier systems.
Product features LIPOID Liposome C Eco is a ready-to-use liquid concentrate of pre-formulated liposomes from soybean phospholipids (non-GMO) with encapsulated ascorbyl glucoside. The formulation is COSMOS-approved and free of preservatives. The ascorbyl glucoside
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
content of the product is 10%, and the particle size of the liposomes is around 40–120 nm. LIPOID Liposome C Eco when stored in closed containers at 2-8 °C and protected from light, is chemically and physically stable for at least 15 months.
Clinical studies on the cosmetic effects of LIPOID Liposome C Eco Clinical studies on the cosmetic effects of LIPOID Liposome C Eco on the skin of 20 female volunteers were performed regarding brightening of age spots (measured with a Chroma Meter) and skin firmness (measured with a Cutometer®).
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Brightening of age spots The objective of the open, randomized study was to examine the efficacy of LIPOID Liposome C Eco in brightening of age spots compared to placebo and initial conditions. A Chroma Meter was used to measure the brightening of the age spots and skin colour by means of light reflection. A brightening of the skin results in higher L* values. After 28 days of treatment of age spots with
a LIPOID Liposome C Eco containing hydrogel, the skin brightness increased significantly (p<0.05). Compared to the initial conditions. Moreover, the age spot brightening effect of LIPOID Liposome C Eco was significantly greater compared to the placebo (p < 0.05) after 56 days (Figure 2). It can be concluded that the advantages of
LIPOID Liposome C Eco as cosmetic ingredient were successfully demonstrated in this clinical study. Skin brightness measurement with a
Figure 1: Schematic illustration of phospholipids and a liposome PERSONAL CARE June 2023
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