COMMENT 5 GLOBAL
Editor Tim Probert
timprobert@personalcaremagazine.com
Business Manager Chris Vincent
chrisvincent@personalcaremagazine.com
Publication Administration Katy Cockle
katycockle@personalcaremagazine.com
Design Aaron Batson
Publisher Geoff King
geoffking@personalcaremagazine.com
Publishing Director Trevor Moon
trevormoon@personalcaremagazine.com
In memory of Josh Taylor EDITORAL BOARD
Lorraine Dallmeier CEO Formula Botanica
Giorgino D. Macalino Associate Director, R&D Makeup Innovation Estee Lauder Companies
Anthony O’Lenick Principal Consultant Nascent Technologies
Dr. Fred Zülli Founder & Business Development Director Mibelle Biochemistry
editorial@personalcaremagazine.com
Published by: Step Communications Ltd Step House, North Farm Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 3DR, UK
Tel: +44 (0)1892 779999 Email:
info@personalcaremagazine.com Website:
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Printed by: Green-on Welcome to the June
issue of Personal Care Global. This issue has three focus areas: skin care, hair care and trending technologies. The trending
technologies focus includes excellent contributions
from BASF on retinol, Greenpharma on the digitalisation of active ingredient development and Active Concepts on neurocosmetics. The latter article demonstrates how, by
activating the skin’s bitter taste receptors and encouraging calcium influx, personal care products can alleviate scepticism around neurocosmetics. A good read. Last month, I had the pleasure of moderating
the World of Chemistry track at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2023, where visitors learned about the latest technology trends in finished products around the world. As ever, much of the hottest innovation in
cosmetics is to be found in Asia, as detailed in a presentation given by Provital’s global beauty trends manager Anna Balaguer. Prominent beauty trends in Asia include
STEP COMMUNICATIONS
products targeting the body’s circadian rhythm to give the skin the chance to recover. Sleep deprivation or an uneven work-life balance is a key driver for this trend, which has seen Japanese brand Kosé design products to leave skin feeling as if the user has slept for three hours more than in reality.
This trend is being picked up in the US through
brands such as New York-based 4AM Skin, which sells serums with star ingredients such as Lespedeza capitata to naturally emulate skin cells’ ability to resynchronize and regulate rhythm-dependent biological functions such as skin hydration, detoxification, and repair pathways. Also super trendy in Asia are ‘friction-free’
products that reduce friction between hands and skin so they are less aggressive to the skin. Examples given included a make-up remover sold by major Japanese brand Kao. Another trend identified is the rise in demand
for anti-ageing technologies since the pandemic. All those Teams and Zoom calls led to people becoming more self-aware and concerned by their wrinkles! There is strong demand for natural products that are less invasive and less expensive than cosmetic surgery or other medical techniques. One example is products that ape the
cryotherapy trend. These could be cold face masks or ice-cube style products, which are kept in the freezer, that reduce skin temperature. Scalp care is seeing a similar trend. These products are also in line with a ‘sensations’ trend, particularly among younger users: ‘cold’ products, ‘warm’ products, products with intense skin feel or high radiance or glow. Finally, it is clear that Gen Z (and no doubt Gen
Alpha to follow) is increasingly knowledgeable about cosmetics and love to know about hero molecules. Keep up the good work, and enjoy the magazine.
©Step Communications Ltd 2023
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means: electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior permission of the publisher
ISSN 2041-0441
timprobert@personalcaremagazine.com Tim Probert,Editor
Image (above): Visitors to NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2023 in New York immersed in an ASMR (autonomous sensory meridian response) experience showcasing IMCD’s Sensational Beauty collection of seven prototypes
www.personalcaremagazine.com June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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