HAIR CARE
****p<0.0001 EssentiaTein Protect vs placebo Caucasian Hair (1A), 1 Application at 1
300 250 200 150 100 50 0
EssentiaTein Protect ■ Placebo ■ 256.75 206.63 ****
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
-2 Temperature
Figure 5: ΔHvaporization (J/g) of UV damaged Caucasian hair after one application of the hydrolyzed protein active and placebo treatments
hair fibres were air dried in a standardized environment at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2°C for 24 hours. All groups were then exposed in a temperature and humidity controlled acrylic dust chamber, with the dimensions of 40 x 40 x 60 cm, for five minutes. The dust chamber contained rotating support and airflow control to transport the dust in the air, with a dust density of 150 g/ m3. For SEM analysis, 5mm long segments were collected from the middle section and fastened to the microscope sample holder with conductive adhesive tape to the carbon base. Utilizing the Spulter Balzers SCD-050
Coater, all swatches were coated with a conductive layer of 90 Å Gold. The ZEISS 940- A scanning electron microscope was used at 10 kV to randomly obtain five micrographs and 5 EDS analyses for each treatment group.
Results The percentage change in dust elements of calcium and aluminum from untreated Chinese hair after the placebo and hydrolyzed protein treatments are illustrated in Figure 1. After one application of the treatment, there was 61.73% less calcium content compared to the untreated (p<0.001), and 24.74% less compared to the placebo (p<0.05). Similarly, there was 73.15% less aluminum
content after treatment compared to the untreated (p<0.001), and 29.17% less compared to the placebo (p<0.1) and is shown to significantly shield hair from external pollutants. SEM/EDS images of untreated Chinese hair
exposed to dust, after one application of the placebo treatment and after one application of the tested group are shown in Figure 2. When treated with the hydrolyzed proteins, hair fibres showed fewer dust particles. The percentage change in dust elements
of calcium and aluminum ions from untreated Indian hair after the placebo and hydrolyzed protein treatments are illustrated in Figure 3. After one application, there was 59.49% less calcium content and 79.10% less aluminum content compared to the untreated Indian hair (p<0.05). One application treatment compared to the placebo did not induce a statistically
www.personalcaremagazine.com EssentiaTein Protect ■ Placebo ■
55
9.18
*** ***
-0.61
***p<0.0001 EssentiaTein Protect vs Initial after 1 applications ***p<0.0001 EssentiaTein Protect vs placebo after 1 applications
Figure 6: Percentage difference in hair shine after one application of the hydrolyzed protein active and placebo treatments compared to untreated
1 APPLICATIONS
EssentiaTein Protect
Placebo Figure 7: Hair shine images after one application of the hydrolyzed protein active and placebo treatment
significant decrease in percentage change in calcium and aluminum. Overall, fewer dust particles were exhibited on additional hair types using these technologies. SEM/EDS images of untreated Indian hair
exposed to dust, after one application of the placebo treatment and after one application of the hydrolyzed proteins are shown in Figure 4. When treated with the actives, hair fibres showed fewer dust particles.
2. Hair moisturization The moisturization potential was measured via Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC).4,5,6 Tresses of Caucasian hair were placed in a Q-Sun UVA 320-400 nm irradiation chamber for 96 hours to cause damage to the cuticles, mimicking the harsh effects of the sun. The hydrolyzed proteins were used at 1% in shampoo to be treated on the UV damaged Caucasian hair and compared to the placebo shampoo. The hair fibres were dried for 24 hours in
a controlled environment at 55 ± 5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2°C and then collected for DSC analysis. The moisturization analyses were made by DSC with an Hitachi High- Tech Sciences TA7000 Series Simultaneous Thermogravimetric Analyzer, STA7200 in triplicate, for a total of three sets of data for moisturization per treatment with approximately 6 mg of hair. From the data obtained by DSC analysis, the value of ΔHvaporization was calculated from the integration of the first endothermic peak in the temperature range of 20°C to 180°C.7
Results The ΔHvaporization (J/g) of UV damaged Caucasian hair after one application of the hydrolyzed proteins and placebo is shown in Figure 5. The water vaporization content of the treated hair is 256.75 J/g in comparison to the placebo, which is 206.83 J/g (p<0.0001). The hydrolyzed proteins significantly increased water content in hair fibres by 24.15%.
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
ΔH vaporization (water vaporization content) (J.g-1)
Compared to Untreated
% Difference
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