50 HAIR CARE
Uncoated INCI: CI 15850
35%/50 mPa•s/>100µm D5 Removal efficacy* 35%/54 mPa•s/>100µm Bio-emollient 35%/12 mPa•s/>100µm
Natural Benchmark 2
Figure 13: Dispersion of Red 7 CA Lake with D5/bio-emollient/Natural Benchmark 2. Pigment loading (%)/Viscosity (mPa·s @ 20rpm)/Particle size (µm). Particle size and fineness of grind (µm) measured with Elcometer® 2020M002 (25°C, 0h). Microscope pictures X400
Pictures (Figure 14, left) were taken of the
black fabric before and after the transfer test for analysis in order to quantify the amount of product transferred to the fabric. The values obtained (Figure 15, right)
– normalized versus negative control – demonstrated that bio-emollient provides slightly better transfer resistance than isododecane, resulting in an almost unperceivable loss of colour on the skin and virtually no transfer of makeup to the fabric. In addition, a transfer resistance test was
performed on a liquid lipstick formula to evaluate if the bio-emollient shows the same behavior in other applications other than foundations. The formula (containing 36.5% emollient) was
applied with six uniform passes in a white EVA foam on top of a BioSkin and left for one hour to dry at 25˚C. Then, the substrate was pressed against a white ceramic plate six times using the texture analyzer equipment. Before and after every contact, the EVA foam
was weighted to quantify the product transferred to the ceramic plate. The substrate was also photographed to later determine and evaluate
Transfer of lipstick to the ceramic plate Cumulative weight in g
2.4E-03 g
Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
Transfer Test (T0) Fabric Before
Transfer Test with Bio-emollient (T1)
Fabric After
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
-19% 40%/6 mPa•s/<5µm Bio- emollient
Natural Benchmark 2
Figure 14: Visual aspect of silicone imitation skin samples before and after makeup removal test with D5/bio-emollient/Natural Benchmark 2. *∆E vs. initial untreated substrate
Isododecane ■ Bio-emollient ■ Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate ■
40%/10 mPa•s/<5µm D5
Synthetic coating INCI: CI 15850 (and)
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate 40%/114 mPa•s/50-60µm
removal Before Foundation Lipstick Mascara Eyeliner
-30%
Figure 15: Left: Black fabric before (T0) and after the transfer test (T1). Right: Amount of product transferred at T1 with a W/O foundation containing 15% bio-emollient/isododecane/Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
the colour difference (∆E). Limited transfer resistance was found to
exist with the bio-emollient when the weight loss and the ∆E (2.5) were determined (Figure 16), resulting in an almost unperceivable colour change. The results obtained suggest the bio- emollient provides transfer resistance properties that are similar to isododecane.
∆E*
after Blot 6 6
Conclusion Silicones play an important role in the beauty industry. They add shine as well as improved texture, spread, and long-lasting effects in hair care, skin care, and makeup formulations. However, some studies suggest they can cause harm to the environment or its biological diversity due to their persistence and bioaccumulation. SilSense Bio 5 emollient offers a sustainable
solution to those consumers who are looking to replace volatile silicone-based products but do not want to lose performance. It offers the same benefits as volatile silicones such as Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), but without drawbacks (non-bidegradable, persistent, and bio- accumulative). It is a naturally derived plant-based ingredient,
1.1E-03 g 2.7E-04 g
3.3E-05 g Blot 1 Blot 2 Blot 3 Blot 4 Blot 5 Blot 6
Isododecane Bio-emollient
2.5 3.5
Figure 16: Amount of product transferred after a transfer resistance test with a liquid lipstick formula containing 36.5% bio-emollient/isododecane/Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate (average results from 3 replicates). *∆E vs. initial untreated substrate
PERSONAL CARE June 2023
has a Natural Origin Content (NOC) of 100%, according to ISO 16128, is readily biodegradable, is COSMOS approved, is vegan suitable, and is Halal- and Kosher-compliant. In addition, it is manufactured using an eco-friendly process. With SilSense Bio 5 emollient, formulators will find the natural solution for a perfect replacement of D5 with high volatility, good spreadability, slipperiness, and non-stickiness for all applications. In addition, thanks to the complementary tests performed in each category, formulators will be able to offer sustainable formulas with unique and differentiated claims.
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