12 NEWS
UK scientists lift lid on ‘super peptide’ skincare technology
Scientists at skincare brand No7 and the UK’s University of Manchester have taken the wraps off a new ‘super peptide’ blend proven to bio-hack the skin’s natural repair process, signalling renewal of over 50 key proteins including collagen and fibrillin in skin cells. The matrix-derived super
peptide blend contains two brand- new chemical entities, a patent- pending world-first technology that cannot be found in any other product. The new peptide blend
effectively tricks the skin into thinking that it has been damaged to signal renewal of key proteins such as collagen and fibrillin to boost skin’s natural self-repair mechanisms, targeting signs of cumulative damage both on and under the surface. The discovery follows 15 years
of research and innovation using scientific methods and approaches that are more akin to medical research and rarely seen in cosmetic product development. The new peptide blend was
developed using cutting edge British R&D across several fields of science and technology including advanced robotics, mathematical modelling, bioinformatics, machine learning, cell biology and cosmetic science. “Underpinning this discovery
is No7’s long-standing research partnership with brilliant scientists at The University of Manchester. Together we utilised new state- of-the-art methodologies and techniques such as machine
learning and bioinformatics to identify and screen naturally- occurring skin efficacious peptides – a first for the cosmetics industry,” said No7’s Head of Science Research Dr Mike Bell. No7’s Future Renew range, which launches in the UK at Boots stores on 12 April, comprises No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum; No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal SPF 40 Day Cream; No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Night Cream; and No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Eye Serum. Mike Sherratt, Professor of
Biochemistry at The University of Manchester, said: “Today the field of peptide technology research is booming, with exciting new discoveries and applications being used in therapeutic medical settings as well as in cosmetic science. This novel and revolutionary peptide innovation could only have been developed from having a deep
understanding of skin damage.” Five peer-reviewed papers
form the science backdrop to this latest innovation from No7 and The University of Manchester, with a further manuscript recently submitted to a high impact science journal. Research presented at
the American Academy of Dermatology’s annual conference in Louisiana revealed the new peptide blend is proven to enhance the expression of over 50 key skin proteins, including collagen and fibrillin, which support skin function and natural self-repair. Unlike retinoic acid, which is
known by dermatologists to cause tolerance challenges such as skin sensitivity and redness, No7’s new super peptide is both highly potent and also highly tolerated, being suitable even for those with sensitive skin. This paves the way to making gold standard skin repair
available to even more people. Machine learning was utilised to
identify naturally-occurring peptide sequences released from key skin molecules including collagens and elastic-fibre proteins, which were then tested using state-of-the-art omics techniques to characterise their skin remodelling activity and find the most powerful for deep down skin repair. Scientists evaluated thousands
of possible peptide combinations to identify this new super peptide, a blend of two novel synthetic tetra- peptides, pal-GPKG and pal-LSVD, which mimic naturally occurring peptides in the skin to boost the skin’s natural self-repair function. Robotic technology at
the University of Liverpool’s Materials Innovation Factory and mathematical modelling techniques were used to optimise the formulation textures and delivery system for penetration of the peptides to where they are needed and work the best. As a result, penetration is
predicted to be 50% better than existing formulations. The new super peptide
technology is due to be presented at three scientific conferences this spring including the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) Annual Conference in Louisiana, the British Society for Investigative Dermatology (BSID) Annual Meeting in Glasgow and the International Societies for Investigative Dermatology (ISID) meeting in Tokyo.
Salicylic acid top-growing ingredient searched in Korea
New York City analysts Spate has identified soaring interest in salicylic acid among beauty consumers in South Korea. The company said internet
searches for salicylic acid is the top-growing ingredient in Korean skincare, with a year-on-year growth of 7801.5%. This ingredient is celebrated for
its anti-inflammatory properties and gentle exfoliation. “Brands should take note that in
Korea, foam cleansers are the top keywords associated with salicylic
PERSONAL CARE June 2023
acid within skincare,” said a Spate spokeswoman. “This trend extends beyond
Korea, as salicylic acid cleanser searches in the US have increased by 6.8% year on year, indicating that it’s gaining traction in the US market as well,” she added. In second place for internet
searches in skincare ingredients in Korea is hydroquinone, which has grown 239.2% in the past year. Most searches are focusing on hydroquinone ointment. “Hydroquinone is known to
target discoloration — searches for discoloration alongside beauty are up 12.2% year on year in Korea. Searches for discoloration alongside beauty is also up 2.9% year on year in the US highlighting
the concern across markets,” the spokeswoman said. “Brands should be aware the
hydroquinone is a prescription only ingredient, supporting the consumer’s desire for strong, dermatologist-prescribed actives,” she added. “These two ingredients suggest
that Korean consumers are searching for stronger solutions to address skincare concerns, which is atypical of the usual Korean sentiment of being gentle and hydrating.”
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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