HAIR CARE
12), obtaining similar performance to D5 with a synthetic coating (similar particle size) or even slightly better with a natural coating (smaller particle size). Aligned with the behavior observed with uncoated pigments, it was very
ZnO and TiO2
difficult to obtain proper dispersion using the bio-emollient or the Natural Benchmark 2 on their own for uncoated Red Iron Oxide. It was observed, however, that the
addition of 3% of pigment dispersant (INCI: Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate) in combination with the bio-emollient helped in obtaining good uncoated pigment dispersion, comparable to that obtained with D5 and the Natural Benchmark 2 (Figure 12). To conclude with our evaluation of pigment
dispersion for the Bio-emollient, the results on the Red 7 CA Lake dispersions showed that the bio-emollient provided good dispersions of the uncoated pigment and very good dispersions of the coated version (Figure 13). The values for the bio-emollient displayed
a smaller particle size in synthetic coated pigments than those obtained with D5, suggesting that better dispersion can be achieved with the bio-emollient.
Makeup removal efficacy In relationship with the bio-emollient’s good pigment dispersion efficacy, we also tested the material to assess its makeup removal performance. The bio-emollient was tested against
D5 and Natural Benchmark 2, using Silicone Imitation Skin substrate. 0.4g of a makeup product (foundation, lipstick, mascara, and eyeliner) was applied uniformly in the substrate and left drying for 30 minutes at 25˚C. After drying, the products were removed using 0.4g of pure materials. A colorimeter was used to evaluate the
colour difference (∆E) between the substrate without makeup products and the substrate after removing them. In the results obtained, the bio-emollient exhibited overall better performance than D5 and Natural Benchmark 2 (Figure 14), as the removal efficacy for the material in foundations showed a colour difference not perceptible by the human eye (∆E < 2) and in lipsticks, mascaras, and eyeliners the colour was only perceptible through close observation (∆E 2-10).
Transfer resistance - W/O foundation and liquid lipstick Transfer resistance on final formulas containing the bio-emollient was tested using the texture analyzer and compared against isododecane and a non-volatile emollient with higher transfer (INCI: Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate), as a negative control. To test transfer resistance for foundation
applications, a W/O foundation formula was applied in a BioSkin plate (urethane elastomer) and left for 30 minutes to dry at 25˚C. Using the texture analyzer equipment in a horizontal position, the substrate was pressed between the BioSkin and a piece of black fabric, rubbing it end-to-end horizontally.
www.personalcaremagazine.com D5 D5 + pigment dispersant 3%
49
Natural coating INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) Jojoba Esters
Synthetic coating INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylisilane
Uncoated ZnO INCI: Zinc Oxide
Bio-emollient
+ pigment dispersant 3%
Natural Benchmark 2
+ pigment dispersant 3%
Figure 10: Dispersion of Zinc Oxide with D5/bio-emollient/Natural Benchmark 2. Pigment loading (%)/Viscosity (mPa·s @ 20rpm) /Particle size (µm). Particle size and fineness of grind (µm) measured with Elcometer® 2020M002 (25°C, 0h). Microscope pictures X400
Natural coating INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and)
Hydrated Silica (and) Jojoba Esters
Synthetic coating INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) Aluminium Hydroxide (and) Stearic acid (and)
Triethoxycaprylylsilane + pigment dispersant 3%
Uncoated ZnO INCI: Titanium Dioxide
Bio-emollient
+ pigment dispersant 3%
Natural Benchmark 2
+ pigment dispersant 3%
Figure 11: Dispersion of Titanium Dioxide with D5/bio-emollient/Natural Benchmark 2. Pigment loading (%)/Viscosity (mPa·s @ 20rpm) /Particle size (µm). Particle size and fineness of grind (µm) measured with Elcometer® 2020M002 (25°C, 0h). Microscope pictures X400
Uncoated Red Iron Oxide INCI: CI 77491
+3% Pigment Dispersant 40%/910 mPa•s/>100µm D5 40%/12 mPa•s/>100µm Bio-emollient 40%/0 mPa•s/>100µm
Natural Benchmark 2
Figure 12: Dispersion of Red Iron Oxide with D5/bio-emollient/Natural Benchmark 2. Pigment loading (%)/Viscosity (mPa·s @ 20rpm)/Particle size (µm). Particle size and fineness of grind (µm) measured with Elcometer® 2020M002 (25°C, 0h). Microscope pictures X400
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE 40%/220 mPa•s/10-20µm 40%/552 mPa•s/<5µm 40%/214 mPa•s/75-85µm 40%/614 mPa•s/>5µm
Natural coating INCI: CI 77491 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin
40%/542 mPa•s/75-85µm
Synthetic coating INCI: CI 77491 (and)
Triethoxycaprylylsilane 40%/1225 mPa•s/>5µm
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