68 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
Neurocosmetic beauty: bitter receptor activation
Meg Mullins – Active Concepts
A consumer’s first impression of neurocosmetic science is commonly one of disbelief or immediate dismissal. Understandably so, since past neurocosmetics such as powdered crystals for detoxification seemed to garner scepticism due to their ambiguous benefits and lack of apparent efficacy. However, modern neurocosmetic
developments have arrived to counter these previous beliefs and provide a solid scientific approach. There is fascinating science that lies within our bodies sensory system. A consumer’s five senses: touch, sound,
sight, smell, and taste are always considered when developing a personal care product, and for good reason. A pleasant smell, or lack thereof, can be helpful in making the experience of using a product enjoyable. The visual aesthetic and application method
ritualize the experience process. The texture, scent, and appearance of a product are all important characteristics which consumers value and that brands are well-aware of. I want to share another sense that has
been entering into focus for the ever-trending skincare world lately: taste. It is not what you think; not edible, wacky cosmetics with questionable claims. This is science, and intriguing science at that. Let us begin by first talking about what
neurocosmetics are. It sounds like one of those word-fusions that sound innovative but lack depth. At first read, sure, you can think that. However, it is more than a mix of two spheres: neuro-, meaning nerves, and the self- explanatory -cosmetics. Neurocosmetics encompass ingredients or
products that exhibit inherent activity on the cutaneous nervous system at a cellular level. The human body’s cutaneous nervous system activity has more than the sense of touch to offer.
The skin is the body’s first line of defence,
and it contains many protective nerves and receptors. These nerve endings protect us from burning ourselves on a hot stove top or make us shiver when there is a chill in the air at the office. There is more lying beneath the skin’s surface than just touch and temperature sensing abilities: Our skin can ‘taste’.
Hitting a nerve To uncover these receptors, it is important to know the layers of our skin and how they function. The skin is composed of structures
PERSONAL CARE June 2023
including the epidermis on the skin’s surface, the dermis, and the deepest layer: the hypodermis. Each structure has different functions. The
lowermost layers of the dermis are where the hailed vitamin D3 is synthesized, and where neuroendocrine research began. In 2000, Slominski and Wortsman investigated activity of many G protein-coupled membrane-bound receptors in the skin’s neuroendocrine network, from the effects of melatonin to celebrity vitamin D.1 The skin’s neuroendocrine network involves
the study of our skin’s hormonal responses and chemical reactions caused by these external stressors. Their research covers the broad neuroendocrine network and the many receptors interwoven throughout. However, one of these receptors found in the epidermis is of particular interest: the bitter taste receptor, also referred to as TAS2R by the pros.
A taste of TAS2R It is arguably intriguing to find a receptor on the skin that should be found in the mouth. So naturally, this became an emerging research topic within the cutaneous biology field. The progression of neurocosmetic research and
technology as it applies to the personal care industry continues with understanding how human skin responds when it encounters external stimuli. Since skin is our barrier against the
environment, that means there are internal processes and reactions that protect us from external stressors or toxins. These stressors can come in infinite forms, including extreme cold, extreme heat, or exposure to chemicals. Chemicals, as most of us know, are not
to be feared once they are understood. The continuing journey to understanding our skin’s response to chemical exposure, especially if it is a bitter chemical, is especially fascinating. This cutaneous immune system behaviour
was further analyzed by Misery in 2002,2 specifically examining how receptor sites behave when bound. This progress assisted later researchers in developing their hypothesis on how this bitter receptor influences cellular changes within the skin. Research conducted in 2018 by Shawet al
clearly details the process of how cells in human skin and taste cells both express the same mRNA for bitter ‘taste’ receptors.3
When a bitter
substance is applied externally to the skin, there is not a bitter taste experienced in the mouth.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80
