66 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
Potency Dermatologists can help recommend the right solution, but the potency of retinol varies depending on the source and concentration. Again, higher levels of the active ingredient are not necessarily superior - it only indicates a different timeline and set of expected results, and also a different likelihood of irritation. Different consumers want different levels of potency.
Compatibility Retinol can be sometimes tricky to formulate with other ingredients. Formulators should look for a retinol ingredient that is compatible with the other ingredients in their formula and won’t be susceptible to destabilization or inactivation.
Manufacturer Formulators should consider the standards and practices of the manufacturer behind a retinol ingredient; e.g. their commitment to product quality and sustainability.
Delivery system Topical retinol can be delivered in various forms, including creams, serums, and oils. Formulators should choose a delivery system that is appropriate for the desired final formulation and target audience.
Regulatory compliance Retinol is regulated by various regulatory bodies, including the FDA, as well as IECSC and IECIC 2021. Regulations and guidelines vary significantly by geographic location; for example, all-trans retinoic acid (tretinoin) is banned for use in cosmetics in the EU. Formulators should ensure that chosen retinol ingredients comply with all applicable regulations and guidelines.
Side effects Because consumers may experience adverse side effects as described earlier (irritation, skin redness, dryness, sensitivity, and skin flaking, among others), it is important to be transparent about the risks based on the concentration of Retinol. Formulators may consider including a soothing ingredient in the final formulation. Even when the highest-quality, most
stable retinol ingredients are selected, the manufacturing and storage process for the final formulation is a key factor in product outcomes. In the case of retinol-based products, it is recommended that processing takes place below 40 degrees Celsius, and storage takes place between two and eight degrees Celsius. Storage should never exceed 20 degrees
Celsius, or dip below 0 degrees Celsius. Optimal storage conditions include aluminum- lined tubes that are oxygen-impermeable. Formulators may blanket with inert gas during manufacturing and packaging.
Where the market is going next Key players in the retinol ingredient market are looking to tackle several significant challenges: ■ Create products that maintain maximum efficacy while reducing irritation ■ Reduce usage of non-natural stabilizers and other ingredients of potential concern ■ Enhance stability
PERSONAL CARE June 2023
■ Explore more sustainable options We can expect to see a lot of momentum
on all four fronts over the next few years. A few chemical companies have already made inroads. Case in point: BASF, the world’s largest chemical producer and a longstanding supplier in the retinol space, has a broad portfolio of solutions including highly effective Retinol 50C, which is soluble in Polysorbate-20, has an assay of approximately 50%. Retinol 10SU presents another option for
brands looking for a retinol that is soluble in soybean oil and has an assay of approximately 10%. BASF continues to focus on innovation in the retinol space. They developed Cylasphere™ Retinol, a ‘soft’ retinol encapsulated in plant microspheres that enable slow release into the skin, thereby maintaining full efficacy while offering a low potential for irritation. It is expected that more retinol products will
emerge which promise a combination of high stability, low irritation, strong performance, and a more sustainable profile. Even before that happens, the resurgence
of retinol means even broader consumer awareness as word spreads about this age- defying powerhouse - and that means major sales potential for brands that get it right.
PC
References 1. Mukherjee S et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy
and safety. Clin. Interv. Aging. 2006 Dec; 1(4): 327–348.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ articles/PMC2699641/
2. Label Insight 3. Lightspeed/Mintel 4. WHO Model Lists of Essential Medicines.
https://www.who.int/groups/expert- committee-on-selection-and-use-of- essential-medicines/essential-medicines-lists
5. Oregon State University. Micronutrient Information Center. https://lpi.oregonstate. edu/mic/vitamins/vitamin-A
6. Mukherjee S et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin. Interv. Aging. 2006 Dec; 1(4): 327–348.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ articles/PMC2699641/
7. Callender VD et al. Effects of Topical Retinoids on Acne and Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with Skin of Color: A Clinical Review and Implications for Practice. Am. J. Clin. Dermatol. 2022; 23(1): 69–81.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ articles/PMC8776661/
8. The Telegraph. Why retinol is a miracle skincare ingredient for women over 40 - and best products to buy in 2022. 19 May 2022.
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/skin/ best-retinol-products-benefits-skin-anti- ageing-acne-cream-2022/
9. Justia Patents. Methods for treating skin.
https://patents.justia.com/patent/9956151
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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