COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE Placebo ■ LIPOID Liposome C Eco ■
0.60 0.40 0.20 0.00
-0.20 Day 28 Day 56
Figure 2: Net age spot brightening effect of a LIPOID Liposome C Eco containing hydrogel (verum) in comparison to placebo. N = 20, Mean + SEM; * = p < 0.05
Chroma Meter showed a significant brightening effect on age spots.
Increase of skin firmness The objective of the open, randomized study was to measure the effect of LIPOID Liposome C Eco on the biomechanical properties of the skin compared to untreated skin and placebo using a Cutometer®: The measurement principle of the Cutometer® is based on the suction method. Negative pressure is produced with a pump in the device and pulls the skin into the opening of the measuring probe. After the pressure is removed, the skin tries to return to its original state, and this process is recorded optically. After 14 days of treatment with a LIPOID
Liposome C Eco containing hydrogel, a statistically significant decrease (p<0.05) in Cutometer® readings was observed compared to untreated conditions, indicating an increase in skin firmness. This increase was substantially higher compared to the placebo formulation (Figure 3).
Formulation Table 1 shows an example of a practical preparation of refine serum containing LIPOID Liposome C Eco as component of a refine serum and simultaneously using other phospholipids (LIPOID H 100-3 and LIPOID H 100) either as emulsifier or as active ingredient, respectively. In general, LIPOID Liposome C Eco can be added easily to a formulation during the cooling phase. The recommended use level is 1–5 % in a pH range of 5–8. When using LIPOID Liposome C Eco only deionized water should be used.
Conclusion The benefits of LIPOID Liposome C Eco as cosmetic ingredient were successfully demonstrated in clinical studies on the skin of female volunteers. Measurement with a Chroma Meter showed a clear brightening of age spots treated with LIPOID Liposome C Eco compared to a placebo, and measurement with a Cutometer® revealed an increase in skin firmness.
www.personalcaremagazine.com *
8.0 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
Placebo ■ LIPOID Liposome C Eco ■
7
Day 14
Figure 3: Relative increase of skin firmness after treatment with a LIPOID Liposome C Eco containing hydrogel (verum) compared to placebo. N = 20, Mean + SEM. * Mean increase in skin firmness relative to initial conditions and to untreated [%]
TABLE 1: FRAME FORMULATION: REFINE SERUM WITH LIPOID H 100-3, LIPOID H 100, LIPOID LIPOS- OME C ECO AND HERBAGLOW® NRG
Phase Ingredients
A Deionized Water Solagum™ AX Corn Starch
Glycerin 86.5 % LIPOID H 100-3
B
Cosphaderm® Dicapo natural Cosphaderm® Pentiol Behenyl Alcohol Almond Oil Castor Oil MCT
Baumwoll Soft Butter™ LIPOID H 100
Covi-ox® T-90 EU C C LIPOID Liposome C Eco HerbaGlow® NRG D Sodium hydroxide INCI Aqua (Water)
Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum Zea Mays (Corn) Starch Glycerin, Aqua (Water)
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Caprylyl Glycol, Propanediol, Glyceryl Caprylate Pentylene Glycol Behenyl Alcohol
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Tocopherol
Phosphatidylcholine, Tocopherol Tocopherol
Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Ascorbyl Glucoside, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol
Propanediol, Aqua (Water), Capparis Spinosa Bud Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Morus Nigra Leaf Extract
PÖ Luxury Cocoa Butter P0241528 Morus Nigra Leaf Extract Sodium hydroxide
Suppliers: 1. Seppic 2. Lipoid Kosmetik 3. Cosphatec 4. Greentech 5. BASF Overall, LIPOID Liposome C Eco is the ideal
brightening ingredient in anti-ageing products, due to an improved performance of Vitamin C co-formulated with liposomes which comprise unsaturated phospholipids able to condition the stratum corneum for obtaining optimal cosmetic effects. Since LIPOID Liposome C Eco can be easily combined with any formulation, LIPOID Liposome C Eco is a perfect component for advanced skin care products.
in vivo prolonged biological activities of novel vitamin C derivative, 2-O-alpha- Dglucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (AA-2G), in cosmetic fields. Journal of Nutritional Science and Vitaminology. 44(3), 345 – 359 (1998)
3. Van Hoogevest P, Fahr A. Phospholipids in cosmetic carriers. Nanocosmetics. 95 – 140 (2019)
PC
References 1. Enescu CD, Bedford LM et al. A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 21.6, 2349 – 2359 (2022)
2. Kumano Y, Sakamoto T et al. In vitro and
Sennweidstrasse 44/46, CH-6312 Steinhausen, Switzerland Tel:+41 (0) 41 748 33 33 Fax:+41 (0) 41 748 33 34 E-Mail:
info@lipoid-kosmetik.com
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
Supplier % w/w ad 100 0.20 2.00 5.00 1.50 0.70 3.75 1.00 3.00 2.50 3.00
1
2 3 3
4 2
5 2
2
1.50 1.00
0.20 5.00
1.00 0.20
q.s.
Procedure:Mix components of A at 75°C. Mix components of B at 70°C. Add LIPOID H 100 and Covi-ox® T-90 EU C, stir until homogeneous. Add B to A and homogenize. Cool down while stirring C. Add C to AB. Adjust pH with D to 6.5 if necessary
Adjusted Chroma Meter Readings (L*)
Increase in Skin Firmness*
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