TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
dark flowers were retrieved from our database and filtered according the IECIC list and the raw material availability checked (upcycling sourcing).
Then, their phytochemical profile with GAINS
was analyzed to know their putative molecular composition. Interesting and original molecules were compiled from the different plants and a biological profiling performed with Selnergy to identify biological targets that may interact with these candidate molecules. Interestingly, several glycosylated flavonoids
were found to be potential inhibitors of aldose reductase (Figure 6),8
an important enzyme
for the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs are responsible for the cross-linking with macromolecules such as collagen and elastin, thus increasing the stiffness of the skin. The black tulip extract from the variety
‘Queen of the Night’ were thus retained. The beneficial effects on skin of the extract containing these particular glycosylated flavonoids were subsequently validated in vitro, ex vivo and in clinical assays. The protein backbone is represented in
purple ribbons and tubes and its volume in purple too. Its active site is depicted in green sticks for carbon atoms. The atoms of the ligands are white and drawn in balls and sticks. Nitrogen atoms are coloured in blue, oxygen is red and hydrogen in cyan.
Conclusion Digital platforms are obviously valuable tools at different stages of the R&D process. Here we highlight two aspects in the development of active ingredients in order to take into account several important criteria for a product: chemical and biological molecular properties, safety and innovation issues and compliance with the regulatory. Data mining allows us to extrapolate
from existing data; prediction goes beyond and brings completely new and unexpected properties. We are closer and closer to a personalized cosmetics where we can integrate the genomics data of skins and plants or other organisms and to predict which ingredients can produce which metabolites to be applied to which skin conditions to have desired appearances.
Figure 4: Protein inverse docking
References 1. Insight Ace Analytic. Global Artificial Intelligence In Beauty and Cosmetics Market. 2022.
https://www.insightaceanalytic.com/ report/global-artificial-intelligence-ai-in- beauty-and-cosmetics-market/1051
2. Jouravel G. Innovative strategies for the valorization of plant extracts in cosmetics: Implementation of a metabolic profiling tool and research of new biological activities. Doctoral thesis in analytical chemistry – phytochemistry. https://theses. fr/2018ORLE2017
PC
3. Do QT, Medina-Franco JL, Scior T, Bernard P. How to Valorize Biodiversity? Let’s Go Hashing, Extracting, Filtering, Mining, Fishing. Planta Med. 2015 Apr;81(6):436-49. doi: 10.1055/s-0034-1396314
4.
http://www.unitis.org/en/-ncstox-project- presentation,
494.html
5. Bernard P, Saguet T, Do QT, Himbert F. Development of Hinoline® as a natural preservative for cosmetic product using bioinspiration and Greenpharma Database. J. Appl. Microbiol. 2021 Dec;131(6):2793-2807. doi: 10.1111/jam.15139
6.
https://www.ebi.ac.uk/chembl/ 7.
http://www.unitis.org/en/-ncstox-project- presentation,
494.html
8. Perez Gutierrez RM, Gutierrez Velazquez E. Glucopyranoside flavonoids isolated from leaves of Spinacia oleracea (spinach) inhibit the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and aldose reductase activity (RLAR). Biomed. Pharmacother. 2020 Aug;128:110299. doi: 10.1016/
j.biopha.2020.110299
Hit target Targets to screen
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Molecule to study
Figure 5: Black tulip ‘Queen of the Night’
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Figure 6: Docking of the interesting glycosylated flavonoids into the aldose reductase
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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