SKIN CARE
alpha-2 subunit (ITGA2), Laminin subunit alpha 5 (LAM5) and Laminin subunit gamma 2 (LAMC2) was also increased respectively by +110%, +70% and +190% in fibroblasts treated compared to untreated NHDF (control). GSfE induces genes coding for the DEJ allowing proper diffusion of free water from the dermis to the epidermis. This in vitro study shows that GSfE boosts
HA synthesis both in the dermis and the epidermis. It also stimulates HA receptor CD44 and its
signaling cascade allowing the reinforcement of epidermal barrier. Indeed, tight junction and differentiation markers are upregulated as well as lipid synthesis for a more cohesive epidermis able to lock moisture in skin. It also stimulates dermal-epidermal junction markers expression for a better diffusion of skin water. Finally, antioxidant cell responses are upregulated with the active treatment for a protection against HA degradation by free radicals. According to these results, ability of GSfE to
counteract skin dehydration (lack of water) and dryness (lack of lipids) was evaluated in vivo.
A hydra-pumping active ingredient A clinical study was conducted with 20 volunteers (mean age: 48 yo) presenting dehydrated to very dehydrated facial skin and visible crow’s feet wrinkles. A sub- panel was defined with subjects presenting sebum-deficient skin (sebum ≤ 100 µg/cm2
forehead). Volunteers applied, in a randomized
split face application, twice a day GSfE 1% or a gel placebo during 28 days. Following measurements were performed at D0 and D28: skin hydration on forehead by MoistureMap, skin surface lipids by Sebumeter and wrinkle length by Primos Lite. An increase of hydration +7.3%* at D28 was
observed on whole panel. Results were even greater for the sebum-deficient sub panel with +12.5%** of hydration versus placebo (*p<0.05; **p<0.01). Regarding the variation of skin surface
lipids evaluated by Sebumeter, after 28 days of treatment, a protective effect on the hydrolipidic film was obtained with our active treatment (+27% versus placebo**, +2% versus D0). On the sebum-deficient sub panel, a lipid replenishing effect was measured: + 43%* versus placebo. With age and dehydration, wrinkles and fine
lines tend to appear on the face. Thus, as shown in the figure below, acting on skin hydration, GSfE has a visible impact on smoothing wrinkles. The 2D and 3D maps correspond to the wrinkles of a 53 year-old volunteer with dehydrated and dry skin, deeper wrinkle appears in colder color (from blue to yellow). GSfE has a hydro- restructuring and plumping effect on both dehydrated and sebum-deficient skin.
A whole new activity on skin holobiont protein interactions As stated before, for the development of GSfE, an innovative metaproteomic analysis was performed to study the protein interactions between skin host and its microbiota i.e.
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+33% vs. DO
Figure 3: Variation of skin surface hydration evaluated by MoistureMap after 28 days of treatment with GSfE or placebo. *p<0.05 and **p<0.01 versus placebo, $p<0.05 versus D0. Illustrative pictures of MoistureMap outputs for one volunteer with dehydrated and dry skin
the skin holobiont. Study was performed on the panel with dehydrated skin (same as previous clinical study): swab samplings were performed on the cheek after 56 days of twice a day face application with our active. As a control and a tend-to-be reference, a younger panel (volunteers aged between 25 and 35) presenting hydrated skin was sampled at D0 without any application of GSfE. Unlike metagenomic study that allows
only the study of the microbiota diversity, with metaproteomic cutting-edge technology, diversity AND functional analysis can be
performed. Indeed, information of differentially expressed proteins and their origin (human or microbial) are obtained and analyzed. For this study, around six thousand proteins were identified. Among these, significantly regulated proteins such as (non-exhaustive list): filaggrin, HSP A4L, cornifin, hornerin, defensin α1 were clustered by their main functions. Global diversity study has shown that GSfE is
a microbiome friendly active as it does not induce significant variation of microbial composition and alpha-diversity at the genus level. With deeper look at species level, results
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE +7.3%
20% 15% 10% 5% 0% -5%
-10% -15%
ALL VOLUNTEERS +10.0%# +2.7% +4.3% +12.5%**
27 GSfE 1%■ Placebo■
-8.2% SEBUM-DEFICIENT SUB-PANEL #p<0.05 vs D0; *p<0.05; **p<0.01 vs placebo
Women aged 54 yo with dehydrated dry skin type DO
Volunteer 16 D28 PLACEBO
on
-17% vs. DO
GSFE 1%
Mean variation of Hydration index GrayldxT vs D0 (%)
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