SKIN CARE
and lightweight skin feel during application. Since the overall skin feel of a formulation
cannot be described just by one parameter, a sensory study with a trained panel was done, comparing a basic formulation with 1.0 wt.% tara gum rheology modifier against the same formulation with 1.0 wt.% carbomer. Twelve panellists evaluated the creams three times, resulting in 36 evaluations per parameter. The results are shown in the spider
diagram in Figure 8, where it can be seen that the overall skin feel of the formulation with the tara gum rheology modifier is similar to the formulation with carbomer. In both cases, a formulation with high wetness and spreadability is obtained, while being slippery without the formation of considerable amounts of residue.
RCI and biodegradation While there are many natural alternatives for ingredients such as emulsifiers, emollients, etc., there are currently no bio-based rheology modifiers available, which can challenge the performance of widely used synthetic polymers. The tara gum rheology modifier changes this, as it approaches the performance of petrochemical-based rheology modifiers while being naturally derived and biodegradable. Figure 9 shows the RCI scale of several
rheology modifiers commonly used in skincare applications. Synthetic polymers have typically a Renewable Carbon Index (RCI) of zero. On the other hand, the tara gum rheology modifier is
naturally derived from the Tara spinosa plant, which grows in the Peruvian Andes. Due to its low water consumption, it grows also in the drier regions of Peru and can thus give a consistent income to the local farmers. According to ISO 16128, the natural origin index was calculated to be 0.71, which represents an RCI of 71%. Even more important is the fact that the tara
gum rheology modifier is readily biodegradable according to OECD 301B. It is thus a high- performance rheology modifier, which is non- persistent and thus does not build up in the environment.
Conclusion To date, possibilities for formulators to make sophisticated natural formulations without the use of a synthetic polymer rheology modifier have so far been limited by the performance restraints of biopolymers and modified biopolymers, as well as the lack of biodegradability of the latter. Aristoflex Eco T is the first in a new class
of modified biopolymers that combines performance and readily biodegradability. For formulators looking to make fully biodegradable formulations, it permits luxury, thickened formulations with a pleasant feel and pick- up, and good maintenance of texture across temperature and pH ranges.
Reference 1. Mintel Global New Products Database, 2021
39
RCI
100%
Plantasens Biogum Tara Xanthan Gum Cellulose Gum Aristoflex Eco T (71%)
Synthetic polymers (e.g. Carbomer, etc.)
0% PC
Figure 9: RCI scale of Aristoflex Eco T, Plantasens Biogum Tara (Caesalpinia spinosa gum), xanthan gum, cellulose gum and typical synthetic polymers. Plantasens Biogum Tara, Xanthan Gum and Aristoflex Eco T are readily biodegradable according to OECD 301 B
www.personalcaremagazine.com
June 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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