80 ANTI-AGEING
treatments provided a statistically significant (p100%) to Clobestasol as the positive anti- inflammatory control. Based on this data, it was concluded that both CBD and CBG protect against significant UVB-induced pro- inflammatory cytokine (IL-8) release associated with photo- and inflammageing.
Further research Recent findings reported by Willow Biosciences, a biotechnology company that uses its proprietary FutureGrown platform to manufacture pure, consistent and sustainable CBG, provide further evidence that both CBG and CBD possess notable antioxidant activity.6 Using a cell-free model, they reported that the antioxidant capacity of CBG was approximately double that of CBD, with both cannabinoids being less potent compared to ascorbic acid. However, when tested using a cell-based
model involving human dermal fibroblasts induced with hydrogen peroxide, both CBG and CBD inhibited the intracellular formation of free radicals and were observed to be 1,800 times more potent than ascorbic acid. Taken together, these findings reveal that CBG and CBD are potent antioxidants that are capable of scavenging ROS (reactive oxygen species) present within dermal cells. Willow also probed the anti-inflammatory
activity of CBD and CBG against UV-induced inflammation.6
They found that CBG was twice as
effective when compared to CBD at inhibiting the release of TNF-α from normal human epidermal keratinocytes exposed to UVB, and that both cannabinoids were significantly more effective than the positive anti-inflammatory control, clobetasol propionate. Similarly, treatment of human dermal
fibroblasts with CBG resulted in a significant inhibition of IL-6 following UVA radiation, while a lesser and non-statistically significant inhibitory effect was observed for CBD. Both cannabinoids offered significant improvement in IL-6 inhibition compared to ascorbic acid.
Discussion The above results provide valuable insights into the antioxidant and broad-spectrum anti- inflammatory activity of cannabinoids as novel ingredients for age prevention. First and foremost, the anti-inflammatory
activity against UVA (IL-6) and UVB (IL-8, TNF-α) exposure indicates that CBG followed by CBD are able to protect skin from the photoageing and inflammageing effects associated with UV exposure. CBG shows particular promise on this front against UVA exposure, demonstrating significantly superior results compared to vitamin C (Table 1). Secondly, CBD and unique cannabinoid
blends showed significant activity against UVB- induced lipid peroxidation. The dose-response effects of CBD and CBG suggest that formulators should take into account the unique properties of each cannabinoid when developing products intended to provide antioxidant benefits, as higher concentrations may not translate into enhanced efficacy. However, this requires a thorough understanding of the properties and
PERSONAL CARE June 2022
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* * ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **
+ UVB (200mJ/cm2
)
Figure 2: IL-8 levels in culture media supernatants after UVB irradiation and material treatments in EpiDerm. Note: Data represent average ± SEM cumulative data from n=3 tissues per group. Significance compared to +UVB control group (** p ≤ 0.01, * p ≤ 0.05). Data labels represent mean % inhibition relative to +UVB control group
functionality of these interesting compounds while further highlighting the importance of research aimed at characterising these molecules using tissue models that are relevant for cosmetic research and development. These results, coupled with the improved
tolerability of cannabinoids compared to vitamin C, position cannabinoids like CBG and CBD as compelling and tolerable solutions for protecting skin against the oxidative and inflammatory ageing effects of UV exposure.
Outlook Cellular Goods has developed a range of skincare solutions incorporating high purity lab-made cannabinoids. By harnessing the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of cannabinoids, these offerings provide targeted solutions for ageing prevention that are suitable for sensitive skin. The latest product in this range is Cellular
Goods’ Rejuvenating Cannabinoid Face Serum, the UK’s first CBG-based serum designed to prevent the signs of aging by combatting the various effects of extrinsic (UV exposure and inflammation) aging factors. As one of the most research-backed peptides,
palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 promotes collagen synthesis, smooths skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The serum also contains sodium lactate, glycerin, and sodium PCA as skin-identical natural moisturising factors (NMFs) with substantiated efficacy towards supporting a healthy and hydrated skin barrier. Cellular Goods’ Face Serum has been
dermatologically tested and proven suitable for sensitive skin. All products are made exclusively with lab-made cannabinoids, which offer superior purity, safety, consistency and sustainability compared to their plant-derived counterparts. The Cannabinoid Face Serum is the latest addition to Cellular Goods’ line of highly potent skincare products.
Conclusion Skin ageing is an inevitable process driven by a range of factors dominated by UV exposure and chronic inflammation. Products aimed at preventing signs of ageing should therefore directly address the deleterious impacts of these aggressors by reducing inflammation and preventing lipid peroxidation and further damage caused by ROS, all of which lead to degradation of the ECM, a loss of elasticity, the formation of fine lines and wrinkles, a dull and uneven skin tone, and dry skin. While the current catalogue of age-
prevention ingredients, namely vitamin C, retinoids and exfoliating acids, can provide some protection against photo- and inflammageing while imparting other benefits by way of collagen synthesis, their use is often limited due to their irritancy potential and photosensitivity. This points to the need for well-tolerated active ingredients that can proactively mitigate UV and inflammation- induced damage responsible for signs of ageing. Cannabinoids such as CBG and CBD are
well positioned to fill this gap due to their potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Scientific research has revealed that they are capable of preventing inflammation caused by UVA and UVB exposure equally if not more effectively than vitamin C. These cannabinoids and their blends
can also prevent lipid peroxidation caused by UVB exposure, which is a significant feat considering their improved tolerability compared to vitamin C. Taken together, these results indicate that cannabinoids are compelling ingredients that provide multiple mechanisms against photo-ageing and inflammageing, qualifying them as novel ingredients with immense potential for age prevention.
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www.personalcaremagazine.com
Untreated + Vehicle UVB+Vehicle UVB+Clobetasol Propionate (0.05%) UVB+Ascorbic Acid (1.7%) UVB+CBD (0.5%) UVB+CBD (0.75%) UVB+CBD (1%) UVB+CBG (0.5%) UVB+CBG (0.75%) UVB+CBD (1%)
UVB+CBD (0.25%) + CBG (0.25%) UVB+CBD (0.375%) + CBG (0.375%) UVB+CBD (0.5%) + CBG (0.5%)
IL-8 (pg/mL)
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